Little Myth

London Fashion Week: Backstage with T.Lipop AW12

2012-02-23T13:48:00.000-08:00

After drinking and chatting with Ross from the t.lipop design team at Fashion East, the lovely lovely man invited us to the show and allowed us to grab some behind the scenes snaps. Lots of men running about in their underwear and having fake snow put in their beard whilst a nerd ran around shouting orders and Tom Lipop himself calmed him nerves with a Crabbies. Who said fashion was all about the glamour?

Many thanks to team lipop!

London Fashion Week: Fashion East Mens AW12

2012-02-23T13:29:00.006-08:00

A few introductory glasses of chamagne and chit chat with various designers, it can only be Fashion East.

William Richard Green
Inspired by the late 80’s football scene and the wayward hooligan culture and how it was later affected by the 90’s rave, William Richard Green’s AW12 collection was a uniform display of simple shapes and unfussy detailing. As always, the fabrics remain native and are sourced purely from British mills, with Green’s signature polka dot featuring both in lining and in print. Undeniably masculine, the shape is strong and robust with a basic monochrome palette injected with blocks of neon orange.

Christopher Shannon
Capturing the essence of youth and casual delinquency, Christopher Shannon had his models perch in a beaten up old bus shelter. The shades were all very neutral; simple black, greys, and whites that all carried a chain motif to symbolize the stereotypical images of street dwellers. High-tops were prominent once again as a street emblem. Classic and cool, Christopher Shannon represents working class adolescence.

LF Markey
Hanging from the branches of trees secured by dirt and autumn leaves, L F Markey presents her collection of mens shirts and tees, made from only the finest materials. Simple, geometrical and practical, Markey used bold colour combinations to create a playful and perfect ready to wear collection.

Tom Ryling
With a slogan like ‘our house falls down. Slain to pieces on the floor. Pick them up, start again’ plastered across the wall, we were intrigued as to what Tom Ryling would have to offer for AW/12. The answer, fabrics that have the appearance of being broken down and remolded. Holed sweatshirts, firework-effect prints, neutral colours with injections of orange and gold. The designs on show had a feminine flare about them, with rolled up cuffs, sleeveless oversized white t-shirts with metallic print, and mid-drift revealing jumpers. Layering was promoted on all accounts. The tree branches dominating the room represented the body as a bare canvas, the body in winter, and the body as whatever you want it to be.

Kit Neale
Walking through the exhibition, we come to a room in which Elvis Presley’s ‘Hound Dog’ is playing and several models heavily clad in bold prints are singing along and eating crisps. Where are we? We’re at a very relaxed Kit Neale AW12 collection, characterized by a sense of urban realism where multiple layers are key. Abstract and vibrant prints inspired by his own father’s allotment rule in pieces covered in radishes and carrots, the male counterpart to Dolce and Gabbana’s SS12. Print on print is very clearly still on trend this season and even more so in the male department.

T.Lipop
With “not quite enough time” to complete the entire four seasons inspired makeup, the models have to make do with snow sprinkled eyebrows and beards to set the scene for his polar collection. Fur tails, lining and hoods-a-plenty, this collection was the most seasonal and practical yet also one of the most imaginative. Collarless shirts and excessive layering in block burgundy, green and geometric print contrasted against bare chests and optimistically summery white rimmed sunglasses to complete the looks. The boots were also pretty badass.

Marwood
Unusual texture combinations and quality fabrics are the foundation of Becky French’s Marwood brand. In her third season, the AW12 collection combined early 20^th century eccentricity with rustic luxury to create a gorgeous array of neckwear in yarn, wool, jewel coloured silks and the new seasonal lace. The Mr Marwood Hare, a collaboration with Alice Mary Lynch, also deserved a special mention for adding the perfect finishing touch to a simple but effective display.

Dr Noki’s NHS
As mad as usual, Dr Noki’s NHS never fails to grab attention. A vibrant mish mash of comic heros declaring “Crash Pow!” all appear on this collection of ‘culture jamming street couture’. Superhero graphics and signature Noki-SOB masks are presented with bags of attitude and a somewhat intimidating ‘don’t give a f*ck’ stance. Despite the aggressive nature, Noki promotes ethical design through the patchwork effect and reworking of unwanted garments. He’s just a softy really.

Lee Roach
Lee Roach had a room dedicated to a film showing of a kind of ‘real man’s’ catwalk. The models were shot in a kind of ominous warehouse, so although the designs had a feminine quality, the essence of man prevailed. Every sleek design featured a form of black accompaniment, in the form of fitted blazers, wide lace-up boots, handheld bags, or simple belts. All white trousers were worn high, with the overall look being very simplistic. The fabrics ranged from leather to wool with mesh front t-shirts under long heavy coats.

Christopher O'Brien
Standing out from the crowd with a collection based in black, white and aqua, Christopher O'Brien's collection stems from the research and development on new and original materials. Immediately eyecatching O'Brien's surely trademark wrinkled cottons and silks, are juxtaposed against classic shapes and familiar textures. As a whole, the collection is an ultra-modern interpretation on traditional wardrobe staples including the dress shirt and formal trouser. This lovely model even shoved the designer out of the way especially for my picture. Darling.

Paw Hansen
New street style inspired label, Paw Hansen, exhibited classic street-wear, such as the bomber jacket, transformed by luxury fabrics and a modernized shape. The designs are those of ‘old favourites’ made new, and were largely based on classic military, provoking a certain timelessness about them.

Sebastian Tarek
As the only designer showcasing bespoke shoes, Sebastian Tarek definitely stood out from the crowd. Every single pair of shoes was beautifully made. The chalkboard and string tied catalogue of drawings gave a very honest feel to the collection. For a label that gives off the effect of getting back to basics, the shoes still managed to have an edgy, modern quality. The pink crisscross effect lace up brogue-style shoes stood out amongst a selection of classic staples.

Oscar Quiroz
Exhibiting a cozy collection of warm autumnal colours, Oscar Quiroz demonstrated the softer side of menswear. With trademark metal rings woven into the knitted designs, each piece had a signature look about it. Metallic chinos, simple t-shirts and fitted knits made for a classic look. The navy zip up tracksuit hoody represented a collection with genuinely effortless quality behind it.

This was written in conjunction with the lovely Corin Jackson@corinleigh.

C. x

London Fashion Week: The Rodnik Band AW12

2012-02-23T11:42:00.000-08:00

Yes. Yes.YES.

Havingbeen looking forward to this all week, the time finally arrived for me to get agood look at The Rodnik Band AW12 collection. With previous pieces includingMondrian Urinal and Warhol’s Campbell soup can dresses, you can imagine I wasjust a tad excited at what was next. At first glance, The Rodnik Band couldjust look like a bit of fun, you know, something for Katy Perry on a Fridaynight. It’s wacky, out there and really rather comical. However, this season isit also fabulously British, and definitely not one to be written off soeasily.

Aftersipping on £50 a bottle Tequila and vitamin water, a throw back to my studentdays, we set about taking in what was ondisplay. The right hand side of the room was dedicated to the red, white andblue in a teatime display of tea and cake. The models too, dressed in some ofthe most iconic images of British culture, stood on individual plinths emblazoned with the Union Jack. If it wasn’talready obvious AW12 has taken a rather regal stance as it delved in the worldof the Monarchy.

Startingwith a feature film declaring “God help the Queen” with cancan-ing QueenVictorias and British landmarks turned on their heads, is designer Philip Colbert just taking thepiss out of the Royal Family? After afew false fire alarms and a closer inspection, it quickly becomes apparent thatdesigner Philip Colbert is actuallymaking a far more serious comment about the boundaries of fashion and creativeexpression. When we outright asked Philip if the label sought to mock theroyal family, Colbert simply replied ‘No not at all, it’s all about makingeverything relevant’. And boy is he right, as Kate and Pippa Middletonlookalikes instantly get the crowd talking. The designs walk a satirical linebetween art and fashion, and, much like previous collections, play on the ideaof wearable icons.However, Colbert also addressed the inescapability of our national heritage.How we present ourselves is an integral part of our individuality yet so iswhere we come from. Britain is an inherent part of our history and identity andwhy should this be ignored?

A redsequin dress was a nod to the classic Beefeater attire, accessorized with anoversized crown transforming the model into a royal caricature. In her hand, abright red double decker bus bag completely the signature British look. Toneddown but just as iconic, a royal mail postbox in a blush pink made the secondlook paired with a black cab bag and a fried egg purse. Yes, that’s right – afried egg. A similar inflatable egg was also seen around Colbert’s neck formuch of the night. This collection waspractically tailor made for me for as much as I love sequins, I bloody loveeggs.

In it’sown little corner, Violet’s Box, an up and coming vintage fancy dress boutiqueadded to the good British humour of the event kitting out attendees inmoustaches, tulle skirts and top hats. Keep your eyes peeled here for a littleinsight into Violet’s work very soon.

Overall,yet another season of mental window shopping for me. I’m madly in love with theBeefeater dress, that’s for sure. I’m also madly in love with Philip Colberthimself, he was absolutely adorable and exceptionally friendly to everyone he passed. I also loved his hat. I’ll stop going on about the poor man now...

C. x

London Fashion Week: Gieves and Hawkes AW12

2012-02-23T07:36:00.000-08:00

At the end of 5 days dedicated solely to the ladies, the time has finally arrived for boys. Kicking off Mensday Wednesday, I opted to get suited and booted at Savile Row’s Gieves and Hawkes AW12 presentation.

A fresh glass of orange juice upon arrival and one of the most beautifully packaged look books I’ve ever had the pleasure to receive, the presentation was already off to a good start. With many a representative on hand to explain the collection, inspiration is accredited to the 1960’s playful and relationship between colour and print and particularly the work of David Hicks.

Mixing bold colours with geometrical print, notably present in the array of bowties and handkerchiefs, with a more traditional setting paved the way for contemporary and stylish formalwear. Discussing iconic moments such as the Beatles notorious rooftop performance of 1969 whereupon an audience, including former employees, in fact gathered upon the adjoining Grieves and Hawkes roof; the collection is one of the most personal of the week. Barry Tulip plays upon the contrast between classic British menswear from Savile Row and the most bold and rebellious archetypal British band. Drawing upon the past but not becoming consumed by it, classic garments such as beautifully tailored suit jackets are brought into the present day with widened lapels and raised first buttons and teamed with suitably vibrant ties - a nod to the energy and fast paced atmosphere of the swinging 60s. It is explained that these ensembles pay homage to Tommy Nutter who dressed three of the Beatles for their Abbey Road cover.

A stand out piece for me personally has to be the emerald green harris tweed coat, paired with a camel scarf and cashmere blend electric blue waffle crew neck. Formal without appearing stuffy, the look is perfect for those who like to at least think of themselves as a modern day gentleman whilst the autumnal hues are perfect for the season. Spotted elsewhere, I discovered the softest single-breasted camel coat in existence and a dreamy cream donegal v-neck paired with a contrast burnt rose poplin cotton shirt combo. Traditional and distinctive, Gieves and Hawkes have paid attention to detail to create a luxurious and beautifully made collection. Big thumbs up. Now to find myself a gorgeous male model to show them off....

C. x

London Fashion Week: Christian Blanken AW12

2012-02-23T06:40:00.000-08:00

After a very un-fashiony krispy kreme with LFW Editor Faye, we got to flash our press tickets and bypass the queues to take our seats for Christian Blanken. Particular mention must be given to the cheeky photographer with a particularly booming voice declare "Uncross your legs, ladies. This is a fashion show!". The majority, assuming this was a health and safety regulation, immediately obeyed as the photography pit erupted into a fit of stifled giggles. The drama later continued as a model managed to catch her heel in her dress and narrowly avoided face planting the floor. Bravo!

In stark contrast to my previous post featuring Inbar Spector, Christian Blanken.isall about classic and elegant simplicity. Always aiming for items with aloose sportswear theme, these aren’t outfits for the gym. Instead Blankenfocuses on creating a look based on sportswear cuts and shapes whilst ensuringitems remain sleek, chic and wearable. Once again, the AW12 collection sawBlanken’s signature minimalist style reworked with fur trims, intricatedraping, colour blocking and yet more metallics to jazz up straighttrousers and simple dresses into the eveningwear category.

Structured slip dresses in pillar box red and tangerine were set againstflowing draped black, grey and brown floor length pieces, followed by fur linedponchos and funnel neck tunics. Statement pieces such as the high shine brownjacket and metallic jumpsuits were an attention grabber whilst other looksfocussed on layering and loose satin drapes. Simple blocks of neutral whites need no frillsas the beautiful fit and tailoring stands out without assistance. Sleek,straight hair and smoky eyes again lifted the outfits from day to night.

Understated and elegant, this is by far the most sophisticated and femininesportswear out there. I wouldn’t ruin it with treadmill sweat if I were you.

On to the next!

C. x

London Fashion Week: Inbar Spector AW12

2012-02-23T05:30:00.000-08:00

Wow. I really mean it. Wow.

When some people think of a fashion show, this is how they look in theirfantasies, often let down in reality by a designer’s insistence on the dullside of simplicity or wearablity. However, as I took my seat on the front rowat Inbar Spector, the wildest side of my imagination was fulfilled by one ofthe most remarkable and creative shows I’ve ever had the pleasure of attending. Spectatorshave been raving for days after the showtook place and rightly so as Inbar Spector, a relative unknown, was the name oneverybody’s lips. One of this season’s most magnificent Vauxhall Fashion Scout showsthus far, Inbar Spectorwas a breathtaking collection of ingenuity and wonder. And to top it all off?Joanna Newsom’s ‘Peach Plum Pear’ helped to soundtrack the event. It was fatethat I was there, surely?

Inspired by a theme of escapism, her signature style transpired through amyriad of luxurious fabrics, crinolines, sequins and metallics that beautifullyreflected off each and every photographer’s flash. The collection focused onthe question “Where does skin end and the body start?”, immediately apparentthe models losing themselves to their clothing through facial concealment andendless reams of fabric. Fantastical fairytale bodycon items blended with ragilecut away patterns, carefully entwining the model with each piece.

Extravagant pastel toned ruffles, detailed lace and enough sequins that wereso bright even I had to shield my eyes all contributed to an alluring andbreathtaking displays. Lilacs, mint green, rose pinks, golds and nudes wereapparent throughout, leaving the most understated colour of white to create themost stunning of finale looks. A huge wedding-style, ruffle layered dress, not too unlike a wedding cake in somerespects, was paired with an exotic bejewelled mask, all designed by Lara Jensen, to a standing ovation.

Are you likely to be popping to tescos in these pieces? No. Not in theslightest. But the show was everything I could want from London Fashion Week –creative, flamboyant, excessive and experimental and Inbar Spector didn’t letme down.Truly, truly magical.

As always, more to come.

C. x

London Fashion Week: Derek Lawlor AW12

2012-02-22T05:47:00.000-08:00

After leaving it a little bit on the close side (blame Maya) and jumping in the nearest available taxi, we headed off schedule to Shoreditch where Derek Lawlor showcased his latest collection at the charming Paper Dress Vintage.

With models hidden behind a screen, we were left to sip champagne, eat free brownies observe the footwear in anticipation of the show. Such a hard life. Taking in the surroundings in the meantime, it was hard not to notice the rather unusual exposed hair and makeup stations - you see, this was going to be a show with a twist. Changing with every look, the audience were for once able to gain an insight into the fast pace of the behind the scenes crew as they teased and tangled the models hair after each parade.

Specialising in knitwear, Lawlor's creations were innovative and bold, simplified in a predominantly dark palette of blacks and greys with the occasional blast of red. Unlike laddered tights, the laddered knitted dresses were divine and undeniably elegant providing a unique twist to standard formalwear. Revamped classics were a continued theme as simple black leotards and jumpsuits were elevated with 3D embellishments and structured geometric shoulders. There was also a very nipply jumper for those of you who are into that sort of thing. Also showcased throughout were a range of out-of-this-world headpieces designed by Royal College of Art student Hannah Morgan to really up the visual element of the show.

London Fashion Week: Leutton Postle AW12

2012-02-22T05:32:00.000-08:00

After catching last year's Merit Award winners Leutton Postle back in September, I took my ticket (gold star no less) and headed to Vauxhall Fashion Scout for the AW12 collection.

With tribal sounds playing from the start, I was curious as to how knitwear would translate. However, judging by last season these two know their way around a wooly jumper. As usual, the collection was an imaginative and playful range handcrafted with an array of vibrant and diverse materials. Detailed edges made up of tiny pom-poms with metallic patchworks woven into many garments definitely helped in jazzing up winterwear. Running with the tribal theme, models' faces were often concealed by voodoo looking masks with bewildered expressions. Again, the memo obviously got out that I'm a bit of a magpie and would kill for a sequin suit like the one below.

Other stand out pieces included face motifs woven onto dresses and characteristic high textured cardigans and bold patterned trousers. Neutral tones were lifted with pops of primary colours and shimmer effects. Nice.

As always, more to come..

C. x

London Fashion Week: Ashish AW12

2012-02-21T14:36:00.000-08:00

After catching the incredible SS12 collection back in September, there was no way I was missing out on the latest that my fellow sequin lover Ashish has to offer.

The AW12 collection, entitled “Bollywouldn’t” (geddit?), certainly didn’t disappoint. Influenced by a recent trip home to his native India, the Ashish woman takes some of the key elements of ritual life with tie dye silk kurtas printed with Hari Krishna slogans, headscarves and shimmering images of Buddha featuring heavily.

Mixing the sacred with the profrane, the collection also took into account what I can only describe as the most iconic of images from 90’s acid rave culture. Jackets and trousers emblazoned with vibrant yellow smiley faces and hallucinogenic paisley prints adorned pieces ranging from pastel to fluorescent. The two inspirations are ying and yang, which is just as well as the symbol could also be found on glittering shorts accompanying platform Doc Marten style boots.

The designer’s move from home to London is apparent throughout the collection ensuring a more personal and well thought approach to the pieces. It would be easy to ask where else Ashish could go with something as simple as a sequin but, as his transition from SS12 to AW12, I think we can expect great and equally original things in the future.

Keep your eyes peeled this week for an exclusive backstage interview with Ashish where he goes into detail about his inspirations and what's in the pipeline for 2012. Cheers for the chat, Ashish.

Until then..
C. x

London Fashion Week: Michael Van Der Ham AW12

2012-02-20T08:02:00.000-08:00

No rest for the wicked, I trotted off to the Topshop showspace to catch a glimpse of Newgen sponsored Michael Van Der Ham‘s AW12 collection. After cheekily bumping into the lovely Katie with whom I interned with at 156 and having my photo taken for Elle (ooh fancy!), I spotted Mollie King from the saturdays (and just now Nicola from Girls Aloud) bringing my minor celebrity count to about 7. As I said, fancy.

But on to Van Der Ham. Metallics were everywhere in true part season style, with heavy emphasis on silver. Paired with a combination of lime greens, blues, bold rust oranges and muted greys, the photographer’s flashbulbs reflected off the pieces at every angle making for a beautiful display. Gathered waists provided a loose peplum effect on high side slit knitted pencil skirts and dresses whilst simple tshirt sleeves and round necks were lifted with the addition of draped fabric over the shoulder.

As usual, a signature mashup of patchwork prints was rife starting with burnt orange pattern trousers; the design creeping upwards and leaving its trace on more neutral upper halves to maintain both balance and continuity.

Amongst a whole host of perfect party dresses and elegant slim legged, ankle grazing trousers, bold print Louboutin heels gave the models a few extra inches whilst gold leaf print eyes and cool Hollywood waves perfected the looks. If only I didn't always think of bloody Lana Del Ray every time I saw that hairdo. I'm still reeling from the fact she now has a Mulberry bag named after her. Luckily it's a bit shit.

Onto the next one!

C. x

London Fashion Week: Francesca Marotta AW12

2012-02-19T12:20:00.001-08:00

Celebrating her second season at London Fashion Week, Francesca Marotta presented her AW12 collection to a packed out crowd at the stunning Goldsmith’s Hall.

“Amore della mia Vita” (or love of my life to you and me) saw a drastic change to SS12 with colours remaining firmly on the dark side. Using an array of wool, lace, silk and leather as her tools, Marotta focuses on love, loss and mourning. Bold flashes of passionate red interrupt the solemn display as the photographer’s go wild for a lace train ensemble whilst the beautiful and startling finale saw the model practically swapped by the flashes. Dressed in an elaborate thorny crown with smoky red eyes and a gruesome trail of blood running from her lips, the model made her way down the catwalk in a slow and entrancing dance, perhaps a stylistic interpretation of the saviour the women are remembering.

Backcombed hairpieces sat upon perfectly sleek styles, perfectly complimenting the contrasts of the collection. Feminine cinched waists were apparent amongst heavy dark fabrics whilst stark flashes of neon yellow and blue plastics lifted the collection and brought a glimmer of hope to its aesthetic gravity.

More to follow...

C. x

London Fashion Week: Dans La Vie AW12

2012-02-19T12:11:00.002-08:00

I may be a little late in uploading but I can't not mention one of my highlights of Day two at London Fashion Week.

This is Dans La Vie (Rira Sugawara) ‘s third collection at LFW and possibly the most exciting one yet. Dubbed “Exciting Encounter” due to the designers unexpected forray into the medium of 1960′s American Pop art, the influence is apparent from the start. Target symbols and clashing comic – esque prints are strong throughout the display whilst sunglasses and quiffed hair with vibrant streaks all contribute to the cartoon element. Could streaks be the new dip dye?

High gloss finishes were essential as snake skin suits and trenches glistened down the catwalk, suggesting that wet look and vinyl plastics will be big news again this winter.

Teaming cool black leather bombers with the more intense of the prints provided a more wearable approach to the designs whilst other looks went all out with orange disc fascinators and bold identical layers. Models wore bold red lips with clear complexions and dark eyes brought classic glamour to the already retro vibe.

Wide and fur collars, cinched waist trench coats and bold prints are popping up everywhere this week but I have to say that Dans La Vie did it in one of the most daring ways yet. Love.

C.x

London Fashion Week: Shao Yen AW12

2012-02-19T12:06:00.002-08:00

Aimed at ‘creative women who aim to look classic but playful’, Bright Young Things 2011designer Shao Yen‘s AW12 collection wasn’t one to miss.

In one of the most hectic settings so far, a lonesome cellist soundtracked the packed room pushing and shoving to get a shot of a collection artfully displayed on models raised on several high podiums. Despite my own personal fears that the models (one of which I worked with at Fashion156) may fall to their deaths in one misjudged nudge, ‘Class’ looked instantly impressive. Inspired by quintessentially British style, the designs draw upon the country with the inclusion of tweed in several ensembles whilst contrasting leather and fur are unusually integrated into more delicate pieces to satisfy Yen’s trademark fascination with unconventional material. Simple and classic pinstripe suits and polo neck knits too are given a certain youthful edge.

Neutrals, blacks and browns are lifted with vivid injections of orange tailoring and turquoise trims to put a playful spin on conventional and often dull formal wear. The playfullness of the collection is also apparent in the makeup as models donned rosy cheeks (presumably to go along with the good ol' British farmer complexion?) and bold red rips. I know its garish and probably awful in reality but I SERIOUSLY want me some orange fur in some form and asap.

More shows to follow...
C. x

London Fashion Week: Ada Zanditon AW12

2012-02-17T09:13:00.000-08:00

When one thinks of a fashion show, it’s not often youenvision a surreal gothic fantasy that at once explores the relationshipbetween mankind and primates whilst simultaneously unearthing the negativityassociated with Western mineral mining. Queue Ada Zanditon, ethicalextraordinaire and provider of a bloody good LFW film.

After catching Ada’spresentation last year I was keen to snap up a ticket to the AW12 Simia Mineralis showing.First confronted with metallic clad aliens in September, this time I’m stoodnext to a medieval looking maiden. Casual.

Spooky, loud and downright creepy, the presentation was bothimaginative and captivating, showcasing the latest collection in a way that istruly unique. Back once more are Ada’ssignature strong silhouettes, emphasised by dramatic halloween lighting and corridorshots. Dramatic floor length red eveningwear is the outfit du jour in thisfantastical nightmare, introducing a perfectly tailored purple shawl to warmthe heroine in her hour of needs. Fluid lines and opposing fabrics adorn a strikingmodel that could be taken straight from a J D Waterhouse (a personal favouriteif you couldn’t tell) painting.

It could be easy to forget the clothing amongst the flashesof a Green Man and haunting cries but as the camera pans towards a Londonstreet, we’re reminded of the wearability of the collection as it translatesfrom fantasy to reality in an instant. Well, its all wearable in my reality anyway. With a medieval dinner party to attend tonight, I really could have done with some inspiration sooner. Next time, Ada, next time.

Until the next....
C.x

London Fashion Week: The Stereotypes

2012-02-15T09:13:00.000-08:00

With London FashionWeek commencing in just a couple of days time, I will once again be part of the Who’s Jack fashion team downat the front line. However, we will not be alone. From the high-end editors tothe fashion victims, here is a rundownof the LFW stereotypes most likely to be encountered. As a disclaimer, I will add that this is just a bit of fun and is parodied on amusing people and events I, or team members, have encounted.

#1: The Big Wig

Characteristically clad in a pencil skirt and leaving thefaintest whiff of Chanel No.5 and fear in their wake , behold and beware: The Big Wigs.Ever wondered who those stern and visibly unimpressed faces in the front row belongto? Wonder no longer for these are the media sovereigns thatcould make or break your entire journalistic career in the time it takes them to tweet “Fabulouslychic bow detailing @ThakoonNY”. N.B. Avoid all eye contact.

#2: The Off-Duty Model

Whilst you’re still wiping the sleep from your eyes outsidethe entrance to the 9am show, take amoment to acknowledge the small crowd of over eager photographers forming onthe otherside. Once acknowledged, then proceed to weep at the sight of the OffDuty Model. Sporting a casual ensemble of leather leggings and slouchyknitwear, it can often be a distressing spot at such an early hours. Thoughthese people may be unnervingly effortless in appearance, try to resist the urge to run home and claw at yourface. Instead, revel in the knowledge that their lovely beachy blonde hair maybe cut off and dyed orange tomorrow for the sake of their art. Small comforts.

#3: The Blogger

Sometimes immediately distinguishable by the business cardsfalling from their back pockets, if you don’t always recognise a blogger they’llmake damn sure that you know their Google Analytics figures within 13 seconds.These days, some bloggers are (deservedly) as known as the brands and figures they report backon. However, at Fashion Week, merely stepping foot in Somerset House givesother bloggers the idea that they are the queens of all media and that beingmade to stand at the rookies entrance in the rain is, quite frankly, an outrage.Don’tfeel too bad for the poor dears though. Later on, as if by magic, you will also discover they somehow managed to smuggle abusiness card about your person without you even noticing. Sneaky, sneakyblogger.

#4: The Newbie

Bottom of the fashion food chain and the heaviest of fashionweek drinkers, I hold a fond place for the newbie. Speaking from experience,the newbie is the individual that smiles in photographs and actually acceptsthe free absinthe shots at 11am in the Esthetica Exhibition. Undeniably the most friendly and grateful foran actual seat, the Newbies are also the magpies of Fashion Week. First in linefor the cheese and crackers, you can trust the Newbie to be the first to spot afree computer or piece of sushi. Whether they be the budding photographerlugging their equipment with them every step of the way or thejust-starting-out journo, don’t, under any condition, underestimate the newbie.After all, you never know who they’re going to turn into in a couple of yearstime.

#5: The Gemini Twins

Pale, blonde and dressed entirely in black, they are theenigma of the week. Despite being London’s answer to the Fanning sisters,nobody knows who they are or where they came from. Are they twins? Are theyrelated at all? Are they even...real?

#6: The Photographer's Wet Dream

The easiest of the stereotypes by far: the street style photo seekers. Whether it’s the stuffed black birds on their head that grabs yourattention or the fact that they’re strutting around in a ball gown and walking6 small Pomeranians, there is little you can do to avoid them. Whilst it can besaid that men dressed as African Queens make the photographer’s job that littlebit easier, other than that they usually serve no real purpose. Neverspotted in the press area, it tends to suggest their day is dedicated toparading the square in bin bag hot pants and Lucite platforms as opposed todoing any real work. Every day is aphoto opportunity for these people and after a few hours, it really does getvery tiring attempting to find actual style amongst the throngs ofweknowwhatyoudidlastnight.com outtakes.

#7: Alexa Chung/ Olivia Palermo/ Kanye West

Apparently in possession of Bernard’s watch, this formidableFROW trio are somehow at every show on and off schedule. Whilst people obsess over the maxi skirtOlivia is wearing and the width of Alexa’s arms, watch out for Kanye inparticular. He has been known to starewhilst you eat fererro rochers and, as a result, make you feel veryuncomfortable...

I'll be posting every day from Friday to Thursday as well as on the Who's Jack website. Fingers crossed for no twisted ankles on the cobbles.

Until Then..

C. x

Putting A Guard Up: Big Name, Little Reward

2012-01-31T06:34:00.000-08:00

For a while now I have been surrendering myself to the lowly realms of unpaid internships. Now, as much as people argue the case for abolishing what is essentially free labour, the concept of the free fashion (or near enough any creative or media related) skivvy isn't going anywhere. Unfair? Perhaps. But the idea and "reasoning" for many outlets and companies, particularly the larger and more competitive, behind the concept of the unpaid internship is that this is a way for you to demonstrate your passion and undying enthusiasm for the product, brand or trade so to speak.So here I am, once again offering myself up the media Gods for mundane jobs and non existent wages all in the name of proving my worth.

Well... in theory.

In sum, I have been hankering after a newspaper to add to my CV list of media conquests having already now experienced working life in glossy, PR and online. Therefore, I'm pretty pleased to be writing this post from The Guardian HQ. A paper founded in 1821 and known for its impressive international multimedia presence, surely this is the place to be tested; to be put through my paces so I can acquire the skills and experience necessary to succeed within this hilariously cut-throat industry and impress my future employers? I don't hold much hope other than on paper. The name in itself may well impress but as to whether I'm learning anything that goes beyond my own common sense is somewhat doubtful. However, that is not to say I'm not enjoying myself and by environment alone I can cement my ambitions on this being the career for me.

Yesterday, my first day, involved two tasks. My first task involved the weekend papers, a keen eye and a pair of scissors. Nothing life changing but a required task I had no objection in undertaking. For the afternoon's festivities, I locked myself in a messy cupboard, whacked on a combination of Bruce Springsteen's greatest hits and mundane pop and got on with bagging and addressing marvelously expensive things. And then putting them on my head. Day over. Today? Even less productive thus far with the agenda including 15 minutes sorting post and 10 minutes flicking through and filing some look books. Then "just go on the computer for a bit" which, in layman's terms, equates to 2 and half hours. This is not out of the ordinary for many but for me, I've never experienced such a laid back attitude especially in comparison to my last placement at Fashion156 where, in those long and intense hours, I was trained up to a high level in all things essential. In hindsight, I very much did a job without getting any wages. A little mean perhaps but then again, I took something away from it and left in the knowledge that I was "a perfect representative for the company". My role was fashion assistant and writer, not intern, and to this day I still receive enquiries, lookbooks and CVs from people I previously connected with. As hellish as that internship was at (most) times, it was a "no pain, no gain" situation. Here, there is definitely no pain but my prospects of gain seem minimal.

However, after I've eaten my salmon ands couscous (I can at least act the part) I'm going to force this place into giving me work if only to save myself the £178 worth of clothing sitting in my online basket. Research, perhaps? A few more returns, even? G'wan - this labour is free afterall.

Hello Victoria Beckham sunglassess...

My fashion cupboard hideway.

Until I'm made to do something...
C. x

Black, White and Karl all over: Karl Lagerfeld for NET-A-PORTER Launch

2012-01-25T08:16:00.000-08:00

As I write this, the man brandishing a ponytail even more iconic than Peter Stringfellow's is gracing the streets of Paris for a live appearance at the now twitter-infamous cube for the launch of 'Karl', the 'affordable' collection by Karl Lagerfeld. I, on the other hand, am firmly based in my bedroom in the countryside and have opted (/had no other choice but) to take a more digital approach to the array of covetable classics with a directional twist.

Now, I won't lie - I'm a fan of the garish. But saying that, Karl's expected monochrome ensembles are classically cool. From LBDs to biker vests and embellished collars that would not look out of place on the icon himself. In a word the collection is, quite simply, Karl. Sleek, simple yet effortless strong; it is a collection that embodies that man who created it, even quite literally as his silouette adorns totes, canvas shoppers and even a PVC sleeved sweater.

As my staple 'bin bag' leggings suggest, I'm a big fan of the black and shiny so PVC sleeves and hooded tops combined with faux leather trousers are a big win with me. However, with some items heavily featuring silver and black sequins, has Net-A-Porter missed a trick by releasing the debut as the party season comes to a close?

As a whole, the collection is brilliantly self involved and that's probably why most people will scramble over themselves to get a piece. There are very few people who can get away with purposefully selling racer vests and tshirts with their own image on it without simply screaming egomaniac. Yet here he is, Karl Lagerfeld, posing and dancing across the torsos of the masses clearly not giving a shit about any of that. He's an icon -the public know it and, most of all, so does he.

Thoughts?
Until the next.
C. x

Born Sleepy: J.W Anderson AW12 Menswear Preview

2012-01-13T08:59:00.000-08:00

Now it's not often that I do this but I felt that this was something really worth mentioning.

With designers ready to take to the Milan catwalks in T-24 hours , it's hard to avoid the bombardment of anticipated previews and spectacular campaigns. Whilst everybody wets themselves over the arrival of Mulberry's Brighton Rock campaign, which I will admit is somewhat delicious, it has to be J W Anderson who's really caught my attention in one of the most unusual ways possible.

The bold graphic signature for which womenswear is reknowned has been effortlessly translated for the boys as can be seen in the AW12 offering. You could say it's just a smidge different to classic tuxedo combinations mentioned in my last postbut that's J W Anderson all over.

With a haircut to rival Davy Jones, it's hard not to take notice of this almost 60s inspired yet radically modern collection. And whilst I'll be the first to accept that a ankle skimming flares and quilted white bucket-like hats aren't for everyone, it's exciting to see such experimentation. Flares are well on their way to making a comeback in womenswear so who says the men aren't about to follow suit? I have a friend who will be over the moon to hear this news.

High necks and bold collars are there to inspire small changes for the Spring whilst the brown tracksuit is wrong but oh so right despite it's complete unwearability.

And no, I hadn't completely missed the eyes rolled back in the head. Is it a metaphorical nod to the collection's 'roll back' to the yester-years? Probably not, no, but it sure as hell gives a certain edge to the model's femininity and hold's your attention doesnt it. After all, we can't be looking too pretty can we?

Images: Models

Photography: Alex Sainsbury
Styling: Benjamin Bruno
Model: Oliver Greenall at Elite London
Grooming: Hiroshi Matsushita using Bumble and Bumble
Photography assistance: Hugo Yanguella

C. x

The Winter Issue: Womenswear

2011-12-20T06:34:00.000-08:00

Behind every great man in an editorial is a great woman. Or three.

And luckily for them, the lace up Acne and Jeffrey Campbell platforms acted as a stylish alternative to the Archiv vintage hiking boots that the men were subjected to. It's an unusual feeling making a 17 year old model's eyes water by cramming their size 11 feet into size 8 shoes...

However, as promised, here come the girls. I'll let the pictures do the talking here but I will say only two things:

Firstly, the Jaeger sheepskin coat that Sara is sporting is to die for. Secondly, the Holly Fulton dress in the first image was worn by Samantha Cameron just a few weeks ago which wasn't exactly the look this editorial was going for...

Images, again, courtesy of Mark Shearwood to be found in full at Fashion156

C. x

The Winter Issue: Menswear

2011-12-20T06:13:00.000-08:00

Picture the scene.

You're on your way to the Christmas party. It's snowing, it's cold and you're, of course, impeccably dressed for the night's festivities. However, the car breaks down on the roadside and, with the vintage hiking boots that every respectable man keeps in the boot for emergencies such as these, you are forced to trek to the party.

Sound familiar? Well, not for most of you. However, the story for Fashion156's winter mens (and womens if you keep an eye out) editorial struck a chord with me, bringing back memories of the Leeds English Ball 2010. When news reached our ears that a refund wasn't on the agenda, every single one of us decided that snow or no snow, taxi or no taxi, we were going to claim our half a bottle of red wine per head at all costs.

Standing in the entrance of the grand Queens Hotel were a few curious outfit combinations of cocktail dresses and Hunter wellies alongside suits and Sainsbury Local bags as everyone leant on one another in a bid to look vaguely presentable as they transformed from Tundra explorer to distinguished guest in under 10 minutes. In all fairness, unlike in the shoot, the snow was thankfully absent and the pricetag of the clothing had a few extra noughts on the end. Regardless, I felt somewhat connected to the idea my Boss had in mind.

So take a look at the most recent shoot I assisted with for Fashion156's winter issue. Below are the menswear shots featuring Lanvin Navy pinstripe suits and Alexander McQueen double breasted tuxedo jackets that showed up the Primark suits I assume half the Leeds guests were wearing (well, we can't all afford John Smedley cashmere roll necks on a student budget can we?).

Particular love must go to Lyden in the T.Lipop sheepskin coat in the group shot. I absolutely adore it and it was a last minute snatch courtesy of Tom himself forcing his PR to hand it over. Particular distain goes to the £150 Lanvin bowtie which mysteriously went astray and sent the office into utter panic mode. Ugh.

The Mark Shearwood shot editoral can be found at Fashion156
Womenswear to follow....

Becoming a 'Yes' Man: L'Oreal Casting Day

2011-12-15T07:48:00.000-08:00

Have you ever experienced those bored moments in the early hours where, after sitting blurry eyed in front of the screen exploring the hidden depths of profiles and blog entries, you just do things for the sake of doing them? We've all been there. In fact, I'm pretty sure 'facebook stalking' was invented around the 1am mark on a dull Thursday night.

It is exactly this that has lead me somewhat to becoming a 'yes man'. To explain, some of you may have had the misfortune of watching the 2008 Jim Carrey film in which a miserable man (who is supposedly sold to the audience as a slapstick-rib-tickling-comedy-genius, of course) challenges himself to say yes to everything. Well, I decided to do the same with consequences infinitely funnier than anything that happened in those 104 long minutes.

I entered a facebook competition for amusement. A L'Oreal Casting Creme Gloss hairdye competition to be exact. The aim of the game is to create a faux advert, share it with your friends and get them to vote for you to be in an advert with one Miss Cheryl Cole. I didn't do anything you were supposed to past whacking a photograph into their program. As hilarious as I found it looking at my face on a hairdye box, it's always best to remember your friends aren't in on the joke and that, after a little sleep, it's not even funny nor ever was. Luckily I remembered this and proceeded to forget about it.

Turns out, strangers rather liked my face and voted me into the final 50 in the Redhead category. Let's all join together in a collective chuckle, shall we? But it was at that moment I became a 'yes man'. I actually redyed my hair and turned up with the other 49 redheads on 13th December for some of the funniest few hours of my life. I really dislike others doing my makeup and it seems noone can do my fringe as well as I can but who cares? I took a morning out to chat to hairdressers and makeup artists and have a good time.

Saying yes to things is good - a valuable life motto in fact. Being a cheesy git on camera, however, is not. I just can't do it. Being cheesy is abhorrent to me.

"Flick your hair"
- I can't, it's not long enough. It just wobbles.

"You receive a compliment from someone you really admire and you feel ellated, it really gives you a boost" - que a look akin to stubbing ones toe.

"Because I'm worth it"
- the most memorable sales pitch ever perhaps that I simply couldn't remember to say.

I also swore in front of the judges. On camera. And then flapped my arms.

So after strutting to music, doing the peek-a-boo stanceam I Worth It? Of course I am. Am I L'Oreal's definition of 'worth it'? No chance.
However, I'm looking to take this 'yes' attitude as a resolution for the new year. Except when being asked if I want another glass of wine when the answer will be no....just no.

Images: L'Oreal

Until my next ridiculous escapade...
C. x

Into The Woods

2011-11-17T06:13:00.001-08:00

After a frankly exhausting month of being M.I.A. andneglecting this humble blog in a terrible way, I have returned with much totell. For a while now I have been getting up at 6am and returning home at 8pmas part of a lengthy process of putting together the latest issue forFashion156 – The Headwear Issue.

I have had the pleasure of contributing to near enough everysection of this magazine so it’s like my baby! From picture research tolocating street styles to writing the blurbs, a feature and even uploading eachcomponent before it goes live – it was a whirlwind and hilariously stressful.But there are worse things to do then write about hats and go on shoots withattractive young men who are more than willing to model the last-minute handmadeheadpieces you’ve just created. What am i on about? Just another ad hoc taskfor a creative intern. With the help of one of my best friends, Catherine, whoswooped in last minute as my assistant (an assistant with her own assistant? Ohyes) the shoot ran smoothly. The majority of headbands below were actually madeby her fair hand and modelled on my not so fair head.

The theme: Headwear. Beyond that, it was a play it by earday which soon turned into a midsummer night’s dream affair with lilac smokeand floral garlands in a perfectly autumnal setting, dressing with pieces from Liberty to Acne. All accompanied by a teamof not very Shakespearean scousers, lead by photographer Mark Shearwood, whocreated some gorgeous shots. The end results? Look no further:

P.S. The model with the thicker eyebrows is Sasha, photographer David Bailey's son!

Beyond this, my days consisted of insane amounts ofblogging, research and anaylsis to help put together the new issue which can befound in all its glory at fashion156.com.

In other news, I’ve barely had time to breathe. Contributingblogs here and there (yet not herehere, I must apologize) and writing a lengthy ol’ article for Who’s Jack Decemberissue, my fingers are worn out. However, you don’t care about that! So neverfear, with much in the pipeline, I’ll be getting my camera out of its dustycase and going in search of adventure.

Until then.
C. x

Spaceships and Champagne: An Interview with Andrew Majtenyi

2011-10-10T07:36:00.000-07:00

It’s hardto believe that London Fashion Week was almost a month ago. It seems just a fewdays ago that I was hot footing it down Oxford Street for a private receptionfor Andrew Majtenyi’s SS12collection and now, with Paris soon to be finding its place in our memory banks, it seemedlike a fitting time to keep the dream and week alive and recall a conversation I had withAndrew himself on the 20th September.

Unlikemost fashion designers who start with a simple hand drawn sketch, AndrewMajtenyi launches the design process with bolts of fabric and a myriad ofunique inspirations surfacing from personal experience to historical events.Not exactly convential, there is definitely a strong element of originalartistic flare that undoubtedly ensures that his designs are anything butordinary. Having based his AW11 collection, “ByThe Book” on a trip to the British Library, it’s clear to see that alot of research and love goes into his collections and that this designer, in abrilliant way, can be inspired by anything and everything.

As we joined the event upstairs in Orwell House, a glass of champagne upon arrival puts us in the mood to enjoy the ensembles that his three models are stylishly exhibiting. Inspired by the Medieval trial of Katherina Hetzeldorfer in 1477, especially in images of the jurors and art of the period, his influence is unusual to say the least. From the richness of the colours and textures and the sombre moods on the faces of the subjects that Andrew came across have inspired a rather grown up collection of classically elegant dresses in white silk and crimson juxtaposed with structured zip front jackets in silver.
With his suitcase packed and waiting round the back, Andrew was heading off to Paris in less than an hour yet this didn’t stop him having time for a little chat with me. And blimey, what a chat it was!

Growing up in the middle east (“It’s a long story”) , Majtenyi has also designed for film and television working on numerous productions including The Sentinel starring Michael Douglas and Eva Longoria, and Cheaper by the Dozen starring Steve Martin. Over the years, Majtenyi learned about filmmaking, a skill he now uses to write and direct the film shorts that open his catwalk shows, stills of which were on rotate around the room. Astounding friendly and energetic, Andrew tells us about his recent recovery from a 3 month bout of food poisoning following some dodgy mayonnaise on a street- vendor hot dog and provides a zealous interpretation of that fateful event:

“Bah! Have some of that you stoopid forreeeiggnnerrr!”, he exclaims, imitating the dreaded vendor, before blowing a raspberry to really bring the ridiculous scene to life. This man is clearly imaginative in both the design process and everyday life. With his garments possessing prints specifically designed for the collection, with references to art and architecture including castle towers and gothic spires, one has to wonder if he will be drawing on this particular experience and be creating a series of two pieces and miniskirts covered in images of hotdogs and condiments.

Image courtesy of Vogue

“I’m currently building a spaceship”, he continues.

A zany character he may be, but this spaceship has its purpose. “It’s for a show” he explains. His creativity knows no bounds! How exactly a spaceship fits in with the trial of Hetzeldorfer I’m not sure so perhaps he disclosed a little taster for next season.

As he leaves us to mingle, the models switch outfits revealing some more youthful attire including 60s style shift dresses (the orange and purple print had me staring in envy) whilst a medieval burgundy cross adorned a silver mini with a beautifully made matching cape. Dashing off to make his flight, Majtenyi kisses each model goodbye before making his excuses with us and offering us a business card. Amongst the crowds of bloggers, models, pr agencies and people who had a strange air of needless self importance, it was clear that I wasn't going to encounter a nicer and more engaging designer no matter how hard I tried.

However, as I look back at such a strong and vibrant Fashion Week, I can now look forward to my latest venture. Having been promoted to online media writer at Who's Jack magazine, I will be updating on a regular basis whilst also commencing as a full time intern at Fashion156.com. Wish me luck!

Slip Slidin' Away: A/W 2011

2011-10-08T07:36:00.000-07:00

I feel it. You feel it. We all feel it.

Summer has well and truly left us and been replaced withsporadic downpours of violent rain, tiresome gale force winds and just enough sunshine to leave our mindsand bodies absolutely baffled. My barelegged confidence has shied away behind the opaque screen of black and, today,my trusty leather biker jacket remained on the back of my door in favour of thenavy mid-length military coat who’s 2011 debut was particularly well receivedin Karen Millen earlier. Whilst its a shame we are to be face with many awardrobe dilemma in the coming months whilst our vanity takes a beating fromthe elements, I have to admit I’m rather enjoying the change of clothingscenery. Essentially, Autumn/Winter is interestingand people secretly rather enjoy purchasing their cold weather armour,layering item upon item and having an excuse to stuff their weathered feet intostylishly robust boots. I am, of course, no exception. I’ve had my eye out for some time now,picking up pieces here and there that seemed just a little too much. After all,the English are known for embracing the summer the second it simply stopsraining, racing to get their arms and legs out for any ray of light that can offereven the suggestion of a sunkissed glow. Despite this, the A/W season allows free reignfor a different kind of aesthetic experimentation alongside the obvious comfortof the tried and test chunky knit. So, on this frankly dismal and overcast day,I thought I’d reveal a few personal A/W pleasures of mine to be enjoyed with atouch of sun and a chilly air. For my first casual instalment, I present untoyou...

ChinaWhites Dress: £50.00 Love Lucy X

After sampling a little taste of this from Ashish’s S/S12 collection,I’ll be getting ready in advance and adorning myself with as many sequins as Ican manage. It’s no secret that I am like a magpie for these shiny delights andWinter has always struck me as the perfect time to crack them out. A little strongfor the summer months, the feel of a heavy sequined throw or evening dress isexactly what I want when the cold sets in. Classically elegant in black, thisdress is at the top of my wish list. Sometimes not having a set of DDs is agodsend, a smaller chest making this dress beautifully sophisticated despitethe low cut. Hilariously, I spotted it on the site of a chavvy realitytelevision programme and it also possesses the name China Whites. We’ll justkeep quiet about that.

REVIVE Sequin Wrap Dress: £150.00 ASOS

Stunning isn’t it? If i ignored my currently state ofpoverty (that isn’t going to get better anytime soon after accepting an internship with Fashion156) I would be inthis at every available occasion. I don’tcare if people find sequins a tad Dynasty, I, like Ashish, am obsessed. Withthe relaunch of Who’s Jack Magazine just weeks away, you can guarantee there’llbe a hint of sparkle at least somewhere on my person.

London Fashion Week 2011: New Power Studio

2011-09-22T11:49:00.000-07:00

As the queue snakes down the stairs and along the corridor, I have to say I was rather pleased to be near the front of the line to catch a glimpse at the NEWGEN Men's sponsorship winners New Power Studio as they present their inspired SS12 installation.
Since 1993, NEWGEN has provided an internationally recognisable programme that seeks to scout and identify the brightest new talents before offering them the invaluable sponsorship necessary to crack the London scene. With the scheme’s previous success leading it to become a key draw for the international fashion media and having supported such names as Alexander McQueen, Mary Katrantzou and Meadham Kirchhoff in the past, it seemed only a matter of time before it branched out. And branch out it did as in 2009 a younger project was started – Newgen Men – which is supported by Topman and has recognised emerging menswear designers to provide similar support.

This year’s presentation winners, New Power Studio, took to the Portico Rooms at Somerset House to showcase their SS12 and truly couldn’t have done it anywhere else. Fundamentally site-secific, the SS12 menswear installations drew inspiration from the history of the house itself using its previous use as a registration office for births, deaths and marriages to full effect.
The Portico Rooms, a function room for the best part, for one night was turned into a ‘dysfunction’ room in which, by way of three individual real life installations, the chaos and absurdity of family life was explored. Lit under greens, reds and blues, three sets made entirely of paper and cardboard depict the most pivotal moments from the womb to the grave.

As two grooms attempt to marry one masked and pregnant bride, two small and angelic children look on offering no explanation to confused spectators. Everything is surreal and undoubtedly absurd.

Moving on, cast in a red hue, four men sit amongst the rubble playing a childish game of connect four. It almost seems as if this is the bridge from the duo of birth and marriage before an ultimate death, a snapshot of the mundane.

In the final corner, a double suicide leaves two men in a single open coffin basking beneath the blue light, adding to the cold rigor mortis of the scene.

It may have been truly bizarre but it was an unquestionably thought proving installation that really drew upon the location and atmosphere of what took place right in the very place we were standing all those years ago.

London Fashion Week 2011: Katie Eary

2011-09-22T11:21:00.000-07:00

With a large pile of fit-inducing television sets all flashing images to the sounds of Kanye West’s ‘Hell of a Life’ blaring whilst a scantily-clad skeleton sat casually on an unmade bed, I’d be lying if i said the installation at Somerset House hadn’t got me looking forward to seeing Katie Eary’s ss12 collection in the flesh at The Riverside Rooms, London.

The film focuses on Eary’s ‘Fear & Loathing in Las Vegas’ collection for next year’s spring/summer season, bringing her trademark aesthetic to the small screen. In amongst the blaze of night-vision greens and violent red lights emerged Eary’s vision of a ‘Winter-in-Summer’ look, laying bare our survival instincts to clash the atmosphere of the arctic with the heat of the dessert in a collection based on the aesthetical paradox. Inspired by soldiers from the French Legion to the hallucinogenic narcotics of Vegas, Eary juxtaposes a myriad of influences to produce a SS12 that’ll turn tradition on its head.

Arriving just in the nick of time after following some of the worst directions known to man, I found myself sat in an intimate room eating a Ferrero Rocher across from Kanye West. As you do…
It was one of those times that you wish the gale force winds outside hadn’t given you a hairdo akin to a mullet and that you weren’t stuffing your face on the freebies. But after I was done chomping on glorified Nutella, I gave Kanye, who was now looking my way, a small salute which was returned with a shy smile and a nod. Shy? Kanye? Looking to his right, I then noticed his resident bag carrier Mr Hudson sat alongside ready to enjoy the show that was actually using Mr West, once again, as its backing track. Coincidence? No, probably not.

The show began revealing a palette of burnt copper, mustard, cheetah print and gold lame metallics on a series of tshirts and anti fit trousers to reflect the bizarre and brave world of a debauched Las Vegas. With the occasional strut of predominantly ostrich feather and partially sheer womenswear passing by to reveal a very much exposed bottom or two, it was back to the array of lace up trenches, foiled denim and open air knits accompanied by neon orange wicker luggage and Dutch hood falconry headwear.

Taking to the walk herself, Katie Earey received flowers from her orange-clad leading man as she gratefully thanked the audience for a rapturous response to her edgy and unusual collection.

London Fashion Week 2011: Fashion East Men

2011-09-22T10:35:00.000-07:00

Sigh. Another glass of champagne? Oh go on then, I thought, as I began to wander the newest exhibition in Somerset House. The turn around was astounding as a whole host of menswear stood where only yesterday an array of white canvas female mannequins showed their wares. Of course, my natural interest lies in womens fashion yet somehow there is something so interesting about the menswear on offer, almost as if they have less to work with and, therefore, try that much harder to create something unique. From obscure influences to tweaking the old style classics, Menswear had well and truly arrived so I thought it was only fair I shared a few of my favourites.

Agi & Sam

Describing their ideal customer as Ace Ventura, Pet Detective, the first collection Jack comes across is Agi & Sam with their vibrant clash of Hawaiian Castaway brights. Positioned amongst the debris of broken clay pots, the rugged models chat amongst themselves as the spectators gaze at their typically summer straw hats and primary patchwork prints.

Speaking to London Fashion Week, the designer duo describe their style as “a strong emphasis on entirely bespoke print and humour, we believe that fashion should never been taken too seriously. We also endeavour to sit firmly in the middle of brands that fear creating something different and those which push collections too far.”

This collection is undoubtedly fun and laidback, adding a touch of glamour to the washed up!

William Richard Green

For his SS12 collection, ‘I hope I die soon’, William Richard Green puts the spotlight on negativity for the labels darkest collection to date. With influences including a fascination with the paradox of suicide and the irony of the Church’s response to it, Green presents an unapologetic respresentation of Pop Culture’s most glamorised way out.

Silk shirts and vests depicting post-suicide characters in their purgatory establishes what the brand refers to a “gallows humour” whilst clichéd depictions, such as a photograph of a weeping girl, is featured on a stark white tshirt hinting at modern society’s common interpretation.

Each piece is lined with a trademark green polka dot material, produced in Great Britain with mainly British fabric. A simple thread of consistency for some, the brand provides the tagline “Just because the boy looks poor and suicidal doesn’t mean he can’t buy into the morals of a good British heritage brand”.

A fascination with the paradox it may be, but for some, could this collection simply be a brand drawing upon convroversy as a selling point? Adding humour to such a dark topic may seek to address the Modern day contradictory attitudes towards taking ones life, but they too run the risk of glamorising the act in the same way they judge pop culture for the doing the same.

Regardless of this, individual pieces such a an undyed rubber tshirt with contrasting black stripes alluding to classic convict attire evokes idea’s of Purgatory as God’s own prison making the though process behind each garment intelligent and unique.

AstridAndersen

Astrid Andersen’s SS12 collection, mixing feminine rose lace with masculine sportswearin a weight room setting, had us Jack girls hooked from first glance.Graduating from The Royal College of Art in 2010, Andersen went on the win theBrioni Creativity and Innovation Award and the River Island MA Student BursaryAward designing 3 looks for the high street retailer. Her looks are urban and contemporary;unafraid of introducing feminine undertones to classically male sportswear.Styled with street New Era caps, panels of ochre and blush lace feature on teesand baseball jackets whilst tracksuits take a vibrant and casual approach inpurples and reds to add a brave twist to lounge wear.

Hurrah for Mensday Wednesday!

London Fashion Week 2011: Bunmi Koko

2011-09-22T10:10:00.000-07:00

Late night at Freemason’s Hall saw Vauxhall Fashion Scoutpresent African Fashion Award 2010 winner, BunmiKoko, to an unusually packed out audience and I was down the front tocheck it out.

Bunmi Koko is a luxury fashion and art label specialising in both couture and ready to wear womens fashion, whilst also possessing a sister company in artistic illustration. This combination of art and fashion is vital to the brand’s philosophy with all collections striving to present the company motto of ‘Luxuria, Art, Elegans’. Presenting her late night SS12 collection, “Allure of the Sirens”, we are told that Bunmi drew inspiration from Greek Mythology and the infamously seductive Sirens who lured sailors to their deaths with their enchanting call.

With me squinting and desperately trying to remember the names of the former this and that on the FROW*, the lights dimmed on my struggling efforts and realigned my interests on the mysterious figure making their way down the walk, disguise in the darkness. As the lights go up, a young girl begins to belt out a series of soulful sounds, reminiscent of the Siren myth, to accompany the backing track as the first model started to strut.

Floor length pieces colour blocked with blue and yellow accompany midi-length cutaway dresses and structured bustiers, making an avid departure from recent Bunmi Koko collections. The colours were vibrant and boldlybright while the choice of chiffon and organza fabrics allowed the collection to flow with elegant ease. Every so often, a border line couture piece broke through with intricate cut out details and oversized, structured collars in orange and green to add variation to the feminine draping. Blown out, teased hair and metallic sweeps of sea green adorning the faces of each model addied a dash of Siren glamour in keeping with the nights theme. As the final model returned to the back, Bunmi Olaye, the designer herself, took to the runway for a carefree walk of honour clearly overwhelmed of the turn out and waving to familiar faces in the crowd. Not bad for late night on a Tuesday!

*Sabrina, former-Misteeq, Ali Bastien (‘Who?’ you cry? Formerly Becca from Hollyoaks, the naughty naughty teacher who had an affair with the attractive school boy and got stabbed in prison for not being able to keep it in her pants. Classic Front Row attendee....) and Keisha, former-Sugababe. Oh and BB from Dirty Sexy Things but that all passed me by.

London Fashion Week 2011: Oliver Ruuger

2011-09-20T09:26:00.000-07:00

Set in the stunning upper gallery of the Freemason’s Hall, Vauxhall Fashion Scout present Oliver Ruuger’s SS12 range. Agraduate of the London College ofFashion, Oliver Ruuger’s MA collection of umbrellas, sculpturalsaddles, briefcases and hats is a result of a personal design exploration thatturns the everyday accessory on its head with stunning results.

Specifically choosing materials that would convey emotion toall who set eyes upon the pieces, ritualistic materials such as leatherand horse hair play a key role . For Ruuger, it was paramount to hiscollection that he make everything himself, as these pieces would not fall preyto accompaniment and act as an accessory to something else but have a place intheir own right. A spectacle inthemselves, each accessory possesses an Avant-garde twist, from curled andspiked handles to waterfalls of blonde, brown and chestnut horse hair. Withoversized yet understated black brollies skilfully hanging above our veryheads, it was hard not to feel that thecollection exuded the Magritte painting of quintessentialBritishness, the missing bowler hat only to be located on the opposite side ofthe room complete with detached hairpiece. Now, it’s common knowledge by nowthat the ponytail is the must have hairstyle for Autumn and Winter, but on theend of an umbrella? Elements of the surreal were accentuated by the Fathertime-esque figure, posing with each piece, mounted upon the walls . Thetypicality of a lowly umbrella and stereotypically English bowler reach unusualheights in this curiously innovative collection leaving the bowler on my veryown head feeling a little bland!

London Fashion Week 2011: Felicities Presents...

2011-09-20T06:42:00.000-07:00

Whilst established brands such as Burberry Prorsum and Christopher Kane were extravagantly divulging their predicitions for next year, we at Who’s Jack made our way to the Vauxhall Fashion Scout quarter to gander at the next generation of Baileys and Kanes, courtesty of Felicities Presents.

Felicities provides emerging fashion brands with the wholeshebang including PR, brand management and the crucial support and mentoringnecessary to lead young talents on the path to professional success. Withclients including this year’s Fashion Week break through designer Ada Zandition(everybody has been talking, trust me.), we were eager to see who Felicitieshad declared the faces, or more importantly, the brands, of the future. Presenting and proudlyexplaining their collections to the viewers were the budding fashion geniuses Beautiful Soul, CCKuo, Funlayo Deri, Phannatia and Tramp in Disguise who all had their own uniquecreative flair as was apparent in their dynamic and extremely variedcollections.

Starting with BeautifulSoul, their signature look is a blend of timeless evolving style with trueglobal consideration to juxtapose the quintessentially English with aninternational appeal. The brand offers both a ready-to-wear collection,‘Beautiful Soul London’ alongside a bespoke ‘Kimono Collection’

Next, it was time to peruse the wears of CC Kuo who lifted the looks straight off the mannequin and wore her own design, a sleeveless maxi shirt dress horizontally striped with blocks of black and sand with an intricate coffee brown print. A Central Saint Martin’s graduate, her acclaimed graduate collection resulted in a feature in POP magazine. Previously known for her bold use of colour, her SS12 collection takes a more relaxed approach to keep the pieces luxurious and sophisticated whilst retaining a striking and somewhat quirky edge.

After a few more sample of the lemon drizzlecake and chocolate brownies, we’re onto Funlayo Deri who describes her brand as a “celebration of the female form” to emphasize curves using the most lavish fabrics and fine detailing. The SS12 collection has a definite Coast vibe, suitable for an event that requires a guest’s elegance and formality without being overly serious. Classic strapless shapes are given an element of the unexpected through high cut sheer detailed panels whilst plain cocktail dresses are given box effect volume around the hips and teamed with a monchrome, delicately crafted cropped evening jacket.

A quick white tea (non-alcoholic, baffling.) later and onto Phannatiq. Previously having made an appearance with her first collection at AW11 Fashion Week, Anna Skodbo is back with a collection inspired by “forgotten London, urban industrial decay and street art”. The collection features a series of figure huggings shapes with contrasting and sassy anti fit. For Phannatiq, the real design is in the detail as delicate printed silks are adorned with press studs, leather piping and rivets to add an urban edge to feminine wear.

And finally, Tramp in Disguise which is a name that really doesn’t fit the collection on show. According to Felicities, the label offers “dazzling collections that are fun, youthful, modern and edgy”, yet, at first glance, the clothing on show seems distinctly grown up with its head scarfs and high necks. Again though, the proof is in the details. The youthful edge is in the sheer chiffon maxi skirts and near scallop edging, and when looking at the other clothing in the next room their brand aesthetic becomes all the more clear with striking digital prints and knits.

London Fashion Week 2011: We Need To Talk About Fred

2011-09-19T08:15:00.000-07:00

Disclaimer: All images are my own and are to creditted if used.

Sunday afternoon had me ducking and diving under the anyumbrella and cover I could find with its oscillating combination of heavy rain and short bursts of glorious sunshine , leavingme exceptionally pleased at my choice of head gear (bowler hats are practicallya small umbrella on your head, I promise you.). After the fascinating Cristina Sabaiduc showin Covent Garden, I hot footed back to Somerset House to meet Kathryn for themuch anticipated Fred Butler SS12 reception high above the BFC tent in thePortico Rooms where i had only recently watched Craig Lawrence.

A reknowned and rather fabulous maker of the wildestaccessories available, and friend to a favourite of mine, Patrick Wolf (whocreated a sound installation especially for the event), Fred Butler was the place to be. Over lookingthe damp grounds and sour faces below, we inside found ourselves in a rainbowworld to mark the celebration of her first ever on-schedule presentation, afterquite a few seasons of exhibiting off site. And what a presentation it was! Each model was presented on her own indivualand colour themed lilypad suited to their unique ensemble. Vivid pops oforange, purple, blue and green were splashed across tubular shoulder pieces andstructured, geometric headwear almost orbiting the models heads created an out of this world experience. Volume was paramount And the shoes! Tonal platform stilettos adorned with shelllike circles helps evoke ideas of under water fluorescing marine life leaving me feeling rather bland in comparrison.

On such a drab and dismal day, this was just the thing toliven our spirits. The original musical score and even more original designswere only let down by their sponsor, sodastream. A neon under water esque partythis may seem but those bubbly drinks tasted like something right out the sea.Eck! And of course, anything but drab herself (himself?) ,Pandemonia made an appearance in a outfit covering every inch of skin includingusing rubber to look like skin. However, this blow up Barbie Doll talkingthrough rubber lips was enough to make me think of every kind of vile horrorfilm in which faces are implanted onto innocent, screaming teenagers....so I made my exit.