Bright and early on day two of
London Fashion Week, and still exhausted from the bustling schedule from the day before, I managed to drag my weary bones from bed to BFC for the
DAKS SS13
collection. The first show of the day usually lacks in numbers due to
the hangovers and inability to wake before 7am yet DAKS manages to pull
in a packed out crowd with familiar Made in Chelsea faces banished to
(shock horror) the 3
rd row.
Soundtracked by a song from The Knife’s Deep Cuts, the abstract beat
provides a perfect backdrop to a collection inspired by Expressionist
art, from cross-hatched surface techniques to layered brush strokes. As
it so happens, layering performed a key part in the range with models
cocooned in oversized proportions and floating chiffon fabrics, a nod to
the fluidity of the movement.
Springtime at DAKS saw a gorgeous
neutral palette with rich dusty tones washed with white and covered in
earth. In a tale of two halves, the collection moves from light to dark
with simple, clean cut shift dresses under boxy leather sleeveless
jackets alongside exaggerated semi-sheer sleeves and wide leg trousers.
As the collection progresses towards the solstice, the days become
lighter and with it comes warm orange brown tailored shorts with
romantic dark cream shirts and bell sleeve metallics. Sheer white and
cream cool lead the way for simple, chic city looks in structured
layers, finished with tiny shoulder bags and small gym bags carried at
the calf. And finally, the Pièce de résistance, a soft brown heritage
tweed cape with black piping to the pockets and collar leaves the
audience counting down the days until release. Paired with simple tan
flats with cut away sides, I realise it bears a resemblance to the beige
tweed 1960s cape I wore yesterday which officially means they stole the
idea from me (right?).
The effortlessly refined collection was
finished to perfection with slender pony tails that reflect the simple
sophistication of the brand. As the models took for their final lap of
honour, the reality of the collection really becomes apparent as solid
looks are followed to a consistently high standard to create a truly
‘complete’ collection. I want it all and I want it now.
C. x
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