Faster Pussycat: The B Team

Ever been to a party with Pin up bombshells, creatures from the deep, 50’s screen sirens and rockabilly robots? Throw in Teen Wolf, a murdered prom queen and a human sized eyeball and you’ve pretty such sussed The B Movie Ball.

A celebration of the low budget commercial films from the Golden Age of Hollywood, the B Movie covered the less-publicized half of the double feature. Low budget sci-fi and surreal horror were the 50’s B staples and the undisputed theme-du-jour for the B movie Ball in the Old Vic Tunnels.

With a measly budget and time constraints, I was confined to merely exploring the 50’s siren this time around whilst my lovely Maya draped herself in bullets and pink hair to go as an intergalactic space babe. As you do. London being London, the sound effects machine gun she brought with her didn’t make the best of first impressions. However, a true space babe needs her gun (apparently) and this point was thoroughly argued on the door. Sound effects included.

 Oh Hi Vivienne Westwood.

With a band who’s biggest influence HAD to have been Saturday Night by The Misfits, interspersed with Buddy Holly and the like, it was the trendiest bunch of nerds and geeks I’d ever been surrounded with. Being cool wasn’t the main priority; this wasn’t a ball – it was a convention. And perhaps there is something to be learned from these B Movie enthusiasts?

Whilst leaning against the wall to the room in which Faster Pussycat, Kill Kill! was playing, moaning about our heels, a young gentleman reminded us to put things in perspective:

Ladies! It could be worse! There could be zombies eating your brains!

Right on.

London Fashion Week: The Stereotypes

With London FashionWeek commencing in just a couple of days time, I will once again be part of the Who’s Jack fashion team down at the front line. However, we will not be alone. From the high-end editors to the fashion victims,  here is a rundown of the LFW stereotypes most likely to be encountered. As a disclaimer, I will add that this is just a bit of fun and is parodied on amusing people and events I, or team members, have encounted.

#1: The Big Wig

Characteristically clad in a pencil skirt and leaving the faintest whiff of Chanel No.5 and fear in their wake , behold and beware: The Big Wigs. Ever wondered who those stern and visibly unimpressed faces in the front row belong to? Wonder no longer for these are the media sovereigns that could make or break your entire journalistic career in the time it takes them to tweet “Fabulously chic bow detailing @ThakoonNY”. N.B.  Avoid all eye contact.

#2: The Off-Duty Model

Whilst you’re still wiping the sleep from your eyes outside the entrance to the 9am show,  take a moment to acknowledge the small crowd of over eager photographers forming on the otherside. Once acknowledged, then proceed to weep at the sight of the Off Duty Model. Sporting a casual ensemble of leather leggings and slouchy knitwear, it can often be a distressing spot at such an early hours. Though these people may be unnervingly effortless in appearance, try  to resist the urge to run home and claw at your face. Instead, revel in the knowledge that their lovely beachy blonde hair may be cut off and dyed orange tomorrow for the sake of their art. Small comforts.

#3: The Blogger

 

Sometimes immediately distinguishable by the business cards falling from their back pockets, if you don’t always recognise a blogger they’ll make damn sure that you know their Google Analytics figures within 13 seconds. These days, some bloggers are (deservedly) as known as the brands and figures they report back on. However, at Fashion Week, merely stepping foot in Somerset House gives other bloggers the idea that they are the queens of all media and that being made to stand at the rookies entrance in the rain is, quite frankly, an outrage. Don’t feel too bad for the poor dears though. Later on, as if by magic, you will also discover they somehow managed to smuggle a business card about your person without you even noticing. Sneaky, sneaky blogger.

#4: The Newbie

Bottom of the fashion food chain and the heaviest of fashion week drinkers, I hold a fond place for the newbie. Speaking from experience, the newbie is the individual that smiles in photographs and actually accepts the free absinthe shots at 11am in the Esthetica Exhibition.  Undeniably the most friendly and grateful for an actual seat, the Newbies are also the magpies of Fashion Week. First in line for the cheese and crackers, you can trust the Newbie to be the first to spot a free computer or piece of sushi. Whether they be the budding photographer lugging their equipment with them every step of the way or the just-starting-out journo, don’t, under any condition, underestimate the newbie. After all, you never know who they’re going to turn into in a couple of years time.

#5: The Gemini Twins

Pale, blonde and dressed entirely in black, they are the enigma of the week. Despite being London’s answer to the Fanning sisters, nobody knows who they are or where they came from. Are they twins? Are they related at all? Are they even...real?

#6: The Photographer's Wet Dream

 

 

The easiest of the stereotypes by far: the street style photo seekers. Whether it’s the stuffed black birds on their head that grabs your attention or the fact that they’re strutting around in a ball gown and walking 6 small Pomeranians, there is little you can do to avoid them. Whilst it can be said that men dressed as African Queens make the photographer’s job that little bit easier, other than that they usually serve no real purpose. Never spotted in the press area, it tends to suggest their day is dedicated to parading the square in bin bag hot pants and Lucite platforms as opposed to doing any real work.  Every day is a photo opportunity for these people and after a few hours, it really does get very tiring attempting to find actual style amongst the throngs of weknowwhatyoudidlastnight.com outtakes.

#7: Alexa Chung/ Olivia Palermo/ Kanye West

Apparently in possession of Bernard’s watch, this formidable FROW trio are somehow at every show on and off schedule.  Whilst people obsess over the maxi skirt Olivia is wearing and the width of Alexa’s arms, watch out for Kanye in particular.  He has been known to stare whilst you eat fererro rochers and, as a result, make you feel very uncomfortable...

I'll be posting every day from Friday to Thursday as well as on the Who's Jack website.  Fingers crossed for no twisted ankles on the cobbles.

Until Then..

C. x

Spaceships and Champagne: An Interview with Andrew Majtenyi

It’s hard to believe that London Fashion Week was almost a month ago. It seems just a few days ago that I was hot footing it down Oxford Street for a private reception for Andrew Majtenyi’s SS12 collection and now, with Paris soon to be finding its place in our memory banks, it seemed like a fitting time to keep the dream and week alive and recall a conversation I had with Andrew himself on the 20th September.

Unlike most fashion designers who start with a simple hand drawn sketch, Andrew Majtenyi launches the design process with bolts of fabric and a myriad of unique inspirations surfacing from personal experience to historical events. Not exactly convential, there is definitely a strong element  of original artistic flare that undoubtedly ensures that his designs are anything but ordinary. Having based his AW11 collection, “By The Book” on a trip to the British Library, it’s clear to see that a lot of research and love goes into his collections and that this designer, in a brilliant way, can be inspired by anything and everything. 

As we joined the event upstairs in Orwell House, a glass of champagne upon arrival puts us in the mood to enjoy the ensembles that his three models are stylishly exhibiting. Inspired by the Medieval trial of Katherina  Hetzeldorfer in 1477, especially in images of the jurors and art of the period, his influence is unusual to say the least. From the richness of the colours and textures and the sombre moods on the faces of the subjects that Andrew came across have inspired a rather grown up collection of classically elegant dresses in white silk and crimson  juxtaposed with structured zip front jackets in silver.
With his suitcase packed and waiting round the back,  Andrew was heading off to Paris in less than an hour yet this didn’t stop him having time for a little chat with me. And blimey, what a chat it was!

Growing up in the middle east (“It’s a long story”) , Majtenyi has also designed for film and television working on numerous productions including The Sentinel starring Michael Douglas and Eva Longoria, and Cheaper by the Dozen starring Steve Martin. Over the years, Majtenyi learned about filmmaking, a skill he now uses to write and direct the film shorts that open his catwalk shows, stills of which were on rotate around the room.  Astounding friendly and energetic, Andrew tells us about his recent recovery from a 3 month bout of food poisoning following some dodgy mayonnaise on a street- vendor hot dog  and provides a zealous interpretation of that fateful event:

“Bah! Have some of that you stoopid forreeeiggnnerrr!”, he exclaims, imitating the dreaded vendor, before blowing a raspberry to really bring the ridiculous scene to life. This man is clearly imaginative in both the design process and everyday life. With his garments possessing prints specifically designed for the collection, with references to art and architecture including castle towers and gothic spires, one has to wonder if he will be drawing on this particular experience and be creating a series of two pieces and miniskirts covered in images of hotdogs and condiments.

 Image courtesy of Vogue

“I’m currently building a spaceship”, he continues.

A zany character he may be, but this spaceship has its purpose. “It’s for a show” he explains. His creativity knows no bounds! How exactly a spaceship fits in with the trial of Hetzeldorfer I’m not sure so perhaps he disclosed a little taster for next season.

As he leaves us to mingle, the models switch outfits revealing some more youthful attire including 60s style shift dresses (the orange and purple print had me staring in envy)  whilst a medieval burgundy cross adorned a silver mini with a beautifully made matching cape. Dashing off to make his flight, Majtenyi kisses each model goodbye before making his excuses with us and offering us a business card. Amongst the crowds of bloggers, models, pr agencies and people who had a strange air of needless self importance, it was clear that I wasn't going to encounter a nicer and more engaging designer no matter how hard I tried.

However, as I look back at such a strong and vibrant Fashion Week, I can now look forward to my latest venture. Having been promoted to online media writer at Who's Jack magazine, I will be updating on a regular basis whilst also commencing as a full time intern at Fashion156.com. Wish me luck!

London Fashion Week 2011: New Power Studio

As the queue snakes down the stairs and along the corridor, I have to say I was rather pleased to be near the front of the line to catch a glimpse at the NEWGEN Men's sponsorship winners New Power Studio as they present their inspired SS12 installation.
Since 1993, NEWGEN has provided an internationally recognisable programme that seeks to scout and identify the brightest new talents before offering them the invaluable sponsorship necessary to crack the London scene.  With the scheme’s previous success leading it to become a key draw for the international fashion media and having supported such names as Alexander McQueen, Mary Katrantzou and Meadham Kirchhoff in the past, it seemed only a matter of time before it branched out. And branch out it did as in 2009 a younger project was started – Newgen Men –  which is supported by Topman and has recognised emerging menswear designers to provide similar support.

This year’s presentation winners, New Power Studio, took to the Portico Rooms at Somerset House to showcase their SS12 and truly couldn’t have done it anywhere else. Fundamentally site-secific, the SS12 menswear installations drew inspiration from the history of the house itself using its previous use as a registration office for births, deaths and marriages to full effect.
The Portico Rooms, a function room for the best part, for one night was turned into a ‘dysfunction’ room in which, by way of three individual real life installations, the chaos and absurdity of family life was explored. Lit under greens, reds and blues, three sets made entirely of paper and cardboard depict the most pivotal moments from the womb to the grave.

As two grooms attempt to marry one masked and pregnant bride, two small and angelic children look on offering no explanation to confused spectators. Everything is surreal and undoubtedly absurd.

Moving on, cast in a red hue, four men sit amongst the rubble playing a childish game of connect four. It almost seems as if this is the bridge from the duo of birth and marriage before an ultimate death, a snapshot of the mundane.

In the final corner, a double suicide leaves two men in a single open coffin basking beneath the blue light, adding to the cold rigor mortis of the scene.

It may have been truly bizarre but it was an unquestionably thought proving installation that really drew upon the location and atmosphere of what took place right in the very place we were standing all those years ago.

London Fashion Week 2011: Katie Eary

With a large pile of fit-inducing television sets all flashing images to the sounds of Kanye West’s ‘Hell of a Life’ blaring whilst a scantily-clad skeleton sat casually on an unmade bed, I’d be lying if i said  the installation at Somerset House hadn’t got me looking forward to seeing Katie Eary’s ss12 collection in the flesh at The Riverside Rooms, London.

The film focuses on Eary’s ‘Fear & Loathing in Las Vegas’ collection for next year’s spring/summer season, bringing her trademark aesthetic to the small screen. In amongst the blaze of night-vision greens and violent red lights emerged Eary’s vision of a ‘Winter-in-Summer’ look, laying bare our survival instincts to clash the atmosphere of the arctic with the heat of the dessert in a collection based on the aesthetical paradox. Inspired by soldiers from the French Legion to the hallucinogenic narcotics of Vegas,  Eary juxtaposes a myriad of influences to produce a SS12 that’ll turn tradition on its head.

Arriving just in the nick of time after following some of the worst directions known to man, I found myself sat in an intimate room eating a Ferrero Rocher across from Kanye West. As you do…
It was one of those times that you wish the gale force winds outside hadn’t given you a hairdo akin to a mullet and that you weren’t stuffing your face on the freebies. But after I was done chomping on glorified Nutella, I gave Kanye, who was now looking my way, a small salute which was returned with a shy smile and a nod. Shy? Kanye?  Looking to his right, I then noticed his resident bag carrier Mr Hudson sat alongside ready to enjoy the show that was actually using Mr West, once again, as its backing track. Coincidence? No, probably not.

The show began revealing a palette of burnt copper, mustard, cheetah print and gold lame metallics on a series of tshirts and anti fit trousers to reflect the bizarre and brave world of a debauched Las Vegas. With the occasional strut of predominantly ostrich feather and partially sheer womenswear passing by to reveal a very much exposed bottom or two,  it was back to the array of lace up trenches, foiled denim and open air knits accompanied by neon orange wicker luggage and Dutch hood falconry headwear.

Taking to the walk herself, Katie Earey received flowers from her orange-clad leading man as she gratefully thanked the audience for a rapturous response to her edgy and unusual collection.

London Fashion Week 2011: Fashion East Men

Sigh. Another glass of champagne? Oh go on then, I thought, as I began to wander the newest exhibition in Somerset House. The turn around was astounding as a whole host of menswear stood where only yesterday an array of  white canvas female mannequins showed their wares. Of course, my natural interest lies in womens fashion yet somehow there is something so interesting about the menswear on offer, almost as if they have less to work with and, therefore, try that much harder to create something unique. From obscure influences to tweaking the old style classics, Menswear had well and truly arrived so I thought it was only fair I shared a few of my favourites.

Agi & Sam

Describing their ideal customer as Ace Ventura, Pet Detective, the first collection Jack comes across is Agi & Sam with their  vibrant clash of Hawaiian Castaway brights. Positioned amongst the debris of broken clay pots, the rugged models chat amongst themselves as the spectators gaze at their typically summer straw hats and primary patchwork prints.

Speaking to London Fashion Week, the designer duo describe their style as “a strong emphasis on entirely bespoke print and humour, we believe that fashion should never been taken too seriously. We also endeavour to sit firmly in the middle of brands that fear creating something different and those which push collections too far.”

This collection is  undoubtedly fun and laidback, adding a touch of glamour to the washed up! 

William Richard Green

For his SS12 collection, ‘I hope I die soon’, William Richard Green puts the spotlight on negativity for the labels darkest collection to date. With influences including a fascination with the paradox of suicide and the irony of the Church’s response to it, Green presents an unapologetic respresentation of Pop Culture’s most glamorised way out.

Silk shirts and vests depicting post-suicide characters in their purgatory  establishes what the brand refers to a “gallows humour” whilst clichéd depictions, such as a photograph of a weeping girl, is featured on a stark white tshirt hinting at modern society’s common interpretation.

Each piece is lined with a trademark green polka dot material, produced in Great Britain with mainly British fabric. A simple thread of consistency for some, the brand provides the tagline “Just because the boy looks poor and suicidal doesn’t mean he can’t buy into the morals of a good British heritage brand”.

A fascination with the paradox it may be, but for some, could this collection simply be a brand drawing upon convroversy as a selling point? Adding humour  to such a dark topic may seek to address the Modern day contradictory attitudes towards taking ones life, but they too run the risk of glamorising the act in the same way they judge pop culture for the doing the same.

Regardless of this, individual pieces  such a an undyed rubber tshirt with contrasting black stripes alluding to classic convict attire evokes idea’s of Purgatory as God’s own prison making the though process behind each garment intelligent and unique.

Astrid Andersen

Astrid Andersen’s SS12 collection, mixing feminine rose lace with masculine sportswear in a weight room setting, had us Jack girls hooked from first glance. Graduating from The Royal College of Art in 2010, Andersen went on the win the Brioni Creativity and Innovation Award and the River Island MA Student Bursary Award designing 3 looks for the high street retailer. Her looks are urban and contemporary; unafraid of introducing feminine undertones to classically male sportswear. Styled with street New Era caps, panels of ochre and blush lace feature on tees and baseball jackets whilst tracksuits take a vibrant and casual approach in purples and reds to add a brave twist to lounge wear.

Hurrah for Mensday Wednesday!

London Fashion Week 2011: Bunmi Koko

Late night at Freemason’s Hall saw Vauxhall Fashion Scout present African Fashion Award 2010 winner, Bunmi Koko, to an unusually packed out audience and I was down the front to check it out.

Bunmi Koko is a luxury fashion and art label specialising in both couture and ready to wear womens fashion, whilst also possessing a sister company in artistic illustration. This combination of art and fashion is vital to the brand’s philosophy with all collections striving to present the company motto of  ‘Luxuria, Art, Elegans’. Presenting her late night SS12 collection, “Allure of the Sirens”,  we are told that Bunmi drew inspiration from Greek Mythology and the infamously seductive Sirens who lured sailors to their deaths with their enchanting call.

With me squinting and desperately trying to remember the names of the former this and that on the FROW*,  the lights dimmed on my struggling efforts  and realigned my interests on the mysterious figure making their way down the walk, disguise in the darkness.  As the lights go up, a young girl begins to belt out a series of soulful sounds,  reminiscent of the Siren myth, to accompany the backing track as the first model started to strut.

Floor length pieces colour blocked with blue and yellow accompany midi-length cutaway dresses  and structured bustiers, making an avid departure from recent Bunmi Koko collections. The colours were vibrant and boldlybright while the choice of chiffon and organza fabrics allowed the collection to flow with elegant ease.  Every so often, a border line couture piece broke through with intricate cut out details and oversized, structured collars in orange and green to add variation to the feminine draping. Blown out, teased hair and metallic sweeps of sea green adorning the faces of each model addied a dash of Siren glamour in keeping with the nights theme.  As the final model returned to the back, Bunmi Olaye, the designer herself, took to the runway for a carefree walk of honour clearly overwhelmed of the turn out and waving to familiar faces in the crowd. Not bad for late night on a Tuesday!

*Sabrina, former-Misteeq, Ali Bastien (‘Who?’ you cry? Formerly Becca from Hollyoaks, the naughty naughty teacher who had an affair with the attractive school boy and got stabbed in prison for not being able to keep it in her pants. Classic Front Row attendee....) and Keisha, former-Sugababe. Oh and BB from Dirty Sexy Things but that all passed me by.