London Fashion Week: Jasper Garvida SS13

After one of those journeys that seems to be to the centre of the Earth (no thanks to my seriously battered feet) but in reality is exceptionally simple, I eventually found my way to the Bloomsbury Hotel for Jasper Garvida’s latest showcase. Who's Jack have been fans of Garvida for some time now and we were rewarded with a VIP ticket for a really great close up look at L’Unite de Temps et L’Espace, his SS13 collection.

 Oh yes, I was on the FROW - goodie bag and ego boost galore.

As  the sweet sounds of Dusty Springfield  ring out, we are given a hint into the inspirations behind the collection – the 1960’s of course. However, before we had time to contemplate, a bizarre noise hit our ears as the first model took the walk. As she paraded by in a gorgeous all black shift dress in a mini length, it became apparent that the noise was the brushing together of oversized shimmering discs layered upon her skirt. From the length to the very basics of the first look, you could tell that the collection would take shape around the styling of iconic figures such as Mary Quant and draw inspiration from the times as a whole.

 An almost abstract leopard print is accessorized with flip up sunglasses in a circle design and a simple plastic cuff, moving onto geometric designs in black, white, silver and beige. The combination of geometry and structure, right down the very hairstyles inspired by Vidal Sassoon, reflect the modernist architectural design of the time, brought to us in a very 21^st century way. Perspex geometric chokers immediately grab my attention, swamping the models delicate frame with a bold structure to create a simple yet effective contrast.  Colour blocked striped dresses are ready to wear, perfect for casual city chic whilst optical monochrome sequin dresses and shimmering cream lace and disc shifts are perfect for after dark.

The collection very titles draws upon the unity of time and space, the contrast of light and dark, which is something that cannot be dismissed. Strong shapes fit upon soft and feminine silhouettes, simple two tone patterns compliment structured tailoring to create a perfectly balanced collection. As I sat there with my beehive and turtle neck (oh yes, I went there), I was immediately drawn to the wearability of the works and ridiculously excited by the prospect of potentially being able to wear a dress that can be heard before it is seen.  It’s the simple things.

 C. x

London Fashion Week: DAKS SS13

Bright and early on day two of London Fashion Week, and still exhausted from the bustling schedule from the day before, I managed to drag my weary bones from bed to BFC for the DAKS SS13 collection. The first show of the day usually lacks in numbers due to the hangovers and inability to wake before 7am yet DAKS manages to pull in a packed out crowd with familiar Made in Chelsea faces banished to (shock horror) the 3^rd row.

Soundtracked by a song from The Knife’s Deep Cuts, the abstract beat provides a perfect backdrop to a collection inspired by Expressionist art, from cross-hatched surface techniques to layered brush strokes.  As it so happens, layering performed a key part in the range with models cocooned in oversized proportions and floating chiffon fabrics, a nod to the fluidity of the movement.

Springtime at DAKS saw a gorgeous neutral palette with rich dusty tones washed with white and covered in earth.  In a tale of two halves, the collection moves from light to dark with simple, clean cut shift dresses under boxy leather sleeveless jackets  alongside exaggerated semi-sheer sleeves and wide leg trousers. As the collection progresses towards the solstice, the days become lighter and with it comes warm orange brown tailored shorts with romantic dark cream shirts and bell sleeve metallics.  Sheer white and cream cool lead the way for simple, chic city looks in structured layers, finished with tiny shoulder bags and small gym bags carried at the calf. And finally, the Pièce de résistance, a soft brown heritage tweed cape with black piping to the pockets and collar leaves the audience counting down the days until release. Paired with simple tan flats with cut away sides, I realise it bears a resemblance to the beige tweed 1960s cape I wore yesterday which officially means they stole the idea from me (right?).

The effortlessly refined collection was finished to perfection with slender pony tails that reflect the simple sophistication of the brand.  As the models took for their final lap of honour, the reality of the collection really becomes apparent as solid looks are followed to a consistently high standard to create a truly ‘complete’ collection. I want it all and I want it now.

C. x

London Fashion Week: Zeynep Tosun SS13

Presenting in the spectacular Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Freemason’s Hall, I managed to drag my weary bones from Somerset House for a highly anticipated collection from Zeynep Tosun. Well, with Faye declaring “that’ll be well good” first thing this morning, you can see where my excitement has come from.

But in all seriousness, Zeynep Tosun’s collection really is something to be excited about. With a career that began with Alberta Ferreti in 2006 leading right up until last season with her House of Evolution showcase, Tosun has both the knowledge of experience and youthful brand development that makes for an intriguing collection. Having covered House of Evolution myself last season, Tosun’s brand identity is recognisable yet increasingly innovative. With Autumn’s burgundy hues, prints and metallic eyes all cementing themselves as key season details this year, I have a good feeling that Tosun has an eye for detail and an understanding of what’s to come. Now I’m excited.

But in all seriousness, Zeynep Tosun’s collection really is something to be excited about. With a career that began with Alberta Ferreti in 2006 leading right up until last season with her House of Evolution showcase, Tosun has both the knowledge of experience and youthful brand development that makes for an intriguing collection. Having covered House of Evolution myself last season, Tosun’s brand identity is recognisable yet increasingly innovative. With Autumn’s burgundy hues, prints and metallic eyes all cementing themselves as key season details this year, I have a good feeling that Tosun has an eye for detail and an understanding of what’s to come. Now I’m excited.

Dominated by the European and Asian influences of Istanbul, her birthplace,   her collections are generally characterized by high expressiveness and many contrasts, be that in material, colour, texture or style. This eclectic mix is no exception  this season in a collection that boasts floaty chiffon desert cool in perfect unison romantic sheers,  stark monochrome and gorgeously intricate prints. With so many clashing elements fused into one display, you’re lucky not to end up with a hot mess. However Zeynup, in her unique way, pulls it off.
Kick starting proceedings with Equestrian inspired caps and quilted white jackets, strapped at the neck, there is an immediate contrast between bondage and beauty as a clean, feminine cut is given a  tough yet sophisticated grunge edge. Inspired by our recent Olympic success perhaps? No, probably not.  However the sporting theme continues as luxe racer fronts and metallic side-stripe trousers merge into more characteristically Springtime florals yet, as is the way it should be, there is something fresh about the design.  Intricately weaving themselves up the body, flowers depart from the legs to entwine with the body. With crisp whites accentuated by mint greens and lilacs, soon comes the golden sands of the desert as pieces take a new direction.  Hoods turn to hats and outfits are topped off with oodles of chunky silver in the form of chokers, a signature metal it seems for the designer.  This truly is a collection of many dimensions.

All in all, after an array of metallics and prints, contrasting cuts and imaginative accessories, I suppose there’s only one way to describe the works. Yes Faye, it was well good.

C. x

London Fashion Week: Heohwan Simulation SS13

Showcasing at last season’s Ones To Watch and this season’s recipient of the Merit Award, the experimental Heohwan Simulation has more than proven his worth with a myriad structured transisitional pieces. Yes, that’s right – someone has finally realised that Spring doesn’t automatically assume the form of sunny skies and blistering heat.

Whereas other designers see SS collections as the go-ahead for thigh skimming shorts and crop tops galore, Heohwan brings a masculine edge to summer-time cuts that results in a perfectly wearable and versatile collection. Originally studying menswear at the highly esteemed Royal College of Art in 2007 and launching his womenswear label in 2010, his foundations in menswear only adds to the intrigue of his work. The female silhouette is overcome with boyish shapes, contrasted with oversized yet loose belts and sheer fabrics to create a new kind of femininity. Undenibly gorgeous yet grasping at a gentlemanly charm,  it is the connection between the two extremes that creates harmony.

 

 

Whereas other designers see SS collections as the go-ahead for thigh skimming shorts and crop tops galore, Heohwan brings a masculine edge to summer-time cuts that results in a perfectly wearable and versatile collection. Originally studying menswear at the highly esteemed Royal College of Art in 2007 and launching his womenswear label in 2010, his foundations in menswear only adds to the intrigue of his work. The female silhouette is overcome with boyish shapes, contrasted with oversized yet loose belts and sheer fabrics to create a new kind of femininity. Undenibly gorgeous yet grasping at a gentlemanly charm,  it is the connection between the two extremes that creates harmony.

Citing the literary work of Naomi Klein as the inspiration behind the designer’s latest spectacular, with the idea of hidden logos and factory workers as the concept of minimalism, the collection is clean cut and simple yet wholly intelligent. First along the runway, instantly defying the notions of what a catwalk should be, come two models at once; as identical as the other. Oh yes, I’m talking twins. Eerie and effortless, the girls ooze a muted sense of cool in pale chiffon and interlocking fabrics. With an injection of perforated leather and silver embellishment most associated with AW, the collection marries both aggression and delicacy.
Whilst woolen cropped jackets and mesh provide a tough element, umistakeable hues of green and yellow break out like crocuses from the ground to remind us that the sun may be (or, as the case may be, not) on its way. Layer chiffon shirts and urban prints entwine with structure and the geometric to create a range of conceptual urbanwear, most deserving of the Merit prize.

Minimalist and engaging, this is the collection that could find a connection with almost any personal style. Fresh whites and colour pop appeal to the girliest amongst us but exist in such a form as to attract the attention of those who prefer a little subtley and edge. Heohwan Simulation goes to show that Spring and Summer don’t have to be a dramatic departure in the direction of pastels and hotpants but a perfect progression that could survive wardrobe banishment come Autumn. Not half bad.

C. x

London Fashion Week: Trace Publicity Exhibition SS13

After making the most of the free breakfast on offer, I had some time before my first show to have a browse around the Trace Publicity sales exhibition, displaying the pieces of many designers we were going to be seeing a little later on.

I have recently developed a slight obsession with neon yellow/green. It all started with a coat I saw in Urban Outfitters' Boutique section. However at £220, I couldn't quite let my obsession get the better of me and instead found myself a striking neon Henry Holland bag instead. However, Maryling seemed to get where I was coming from with a selection of gorgeously bold neon shirts and a shift dress, contrasted against simple whites and cobalt blue. Whether's a flash of vibrant piping or all full on block colour, adding a pop to a neutral base seems to be the way forward for Spring.

Pastel peach and lilac were picked out from Georgia Hardinge's collection in textured short sleeve jackets and printed pencil skirts. Again, a bold colour block trim gives romantic pieces a real boost.

A sign of things to come, Fyodor Golan's pieces were laid out before me to feed my antipication for the show later on. Blown glasses hata, glorious prints and breathtaking trains all boast a SS13 collection to die for.

 

Getting a feel for the fabrics is really something else. Being about to hold such intricately crafted pieces truly gives an idea in the hours poured into making such an intelligent item. The different dimensions can sometimes be lost through a bad view so to experience it all up close really holds some value.

However, nothing quite beats seeing them in action...

C. x

London Fashion Week: Zoe Jordan SS13

With a front row boasting the likes of Poppy Delvigne, Jamela Jamil and, more surprisingly, BBC Sport’s Jake Humphreys, seating allocations were thrown to the wind as demand exceeded supply for one of the hottest shows this side of London. As well literally referring to the beads of sweat dripping off the furrowed brows of spectators,  Zoe Jordan’s  SS13 collection too oozed laidback sex appeal as sports chic took a turn for the sexy.

Easy, breezy sports  separates lead the way for  a youthful collection in pastel tones with smatterings of leather and boucle. A classic Spring palette of pastel pinks and crisp whites were diluted by the last remnants of the Christmas party with metallic silvers and gold giving a tough edge to feminine tones.  Metallic blue and green skirts were complimented by classic and fresh white cropped vests and open front waistcoats for a sophisticated yet feminine feel. Two piece short suits were brought to life with vivid pops of shimmering green, a hue that ran steady throughout the collection translating onto to-die-for shift dresses.

As the music pumped, shaking the few benches provides, lady-like casuals gave way to college athletics as metallic baseball caps and jackets refused to play ball for optimum contrast. Vibrant orange and scarlet red bikini clad girls interspersed an array of boyish jackets  and slim cut trousers for a real sense of sports luxe.
From a beauty perspective, neutral make up adorned each model with carefree hair, sporting a freshly washed vibe, still dripping wet to provide a nonchalant give-a-f*ck attitude to each get up.

Although it’s not a stark departure from her recent works, this is a perfectly commercial range to appeal to almost everyone. And if running out the door with your hair still wet is the way forward then I suppose we all have something to look forward to come Spring!

London Fashion Week SS13

Back for a third season with a team I honestly love, I couldn't be more thrilled to be back at Somerset House. From the atmosphere to the outfits to, of course, the show, Fashion Week is where the tiniest ideas come into fruition, where a single printed dress or entire collection hits you like a bolt of lightning. What started as a dot in a designer's mind is presented to masses, dictating what the world will be wearing in months to come whether the public are aware of it or not.

So who has been and is still to come? It is pretty dynamic schedule wise. There are the usual celebrity hot spots; Burberry, Moschino Cheap and Chic and Vivienne Westwood all showing alongside new talent such as Marque’ Almeida and Fydor Golan who, Faye assures me, is the new Meadham Kirschoff. As usual, Who's Jack is mostly about the younger designers and emerging talents but we are lucky to attend House of Holland this season along with DAKS, Ashish, Louise Gray amongst other bigger names.

Off to explosive start, my day began a flurry of streetstyle photographers eager to snap the 1960's cape I had 'borrowed' from my mother's wardrobe. When I slump into work at just before 9am each morning, the outfits though nice to look at, aren't quite what I wear to LFW. Fashion week is an experiment, an opportunity to fancy dress and let my imagination run wild without fear of judgement. I can go full throttle with an idea and someone out there will relate to it and approve. Of course, getting the train back to Peckham Rye bursts this bubble with a monstrous pop but it's all very much worth it. It's a place to perhaps inspire and definitely be inspired.

 Image: London Fashion by Paul

 Image: Reiss.com Street Style

So without much further ado....