London Fashion Week: Heohwan Simulation SS13

Showcasing at last season’s Ones To Watch and this season’s recipient of the Merit Award, the experimental Heohwan Simulation has more than proven his worth with a myriad structured transisitional pieces. Yes, that’s right – someone has finally realised that Spring doesn’t automatically assume the form of sunny skies and blistering heat.

Whereas other designers see SS collections as the go-ahead for thigh skimming shorts and crop tops galore, Heohwan brings a masculine edge to summer-time cuts that results in a perfectly wearable and versatile collection. Originally studying menswear at the highly esteemed Royal College of Art in 2007 and launching his womenswear label in 2010, his foundations in menswear only adds to the intrigue of his work. The female silhouette is overcome with boyish shapes, contrasted with oversized yet loose belts and sheer fabrics to create a new kind of femininity. Undenibly gorgeous yet grasping at a gentlemanly charm,  it is the connection between the two extremes that creates harmony.

 

 

Whereas other designers see SS collections as the go-ahead for thigh skimming shorts and crop tops galore, Heohwan brings a masculine edge to summer-time cuts that results in a perfectly wearable and versatile collection. Originally studying menswear at the highly esteemed Royal College of Art in 2007 and launching his womenswear label in 2010, his foundations in menswear only adds to the intrigue of his work. The female silhouette is overcome with boyish shapes, contrasted with oversized yet loose belts and sheer fabrics to create a new kind of femininity. Undenibly gorgeous yet grasping at a gentlemanly charm,  it is the connection between the two extremes that creates harmony.

Citing the literary work of Naomi Klein as the inspiration behind the designer’s latest spectacular, with the idea of hidden logos and factory workers as the concept of minimalism, the collection is clean cut and simple yet wholly intelligent. First along the runway, instantly defying the notions of what a catwalk should be, come two models at once; as identical as the other. Oh yes, I’m talking twins. Eerie and effortless, the girls ooze a muted sense of cool in pale chiffon and interlocking fabrics. With an injection of perforated leather and silver embellishment most associated with AW, the collection marries both aggression and delicacy.
Whilst woolen cropped jackets and mesh provide a tough element, umistakeable hues of green and yellow break out like crocuses from the ground to remind us that the sun may be (or, as the case may be, not) on its way. Layer chiffon shirts and urban prints entwine with structure and the geometric to create a range of conceptual urbanwear, most deserving of the Merit prize.

Minimalist and engaging, this is the collection that could find a connection with almost any personal style. Fresh whites and colour pop appeal to the girliest amongst us but exist in such a form as to attract the attention of those who prefer a little subtley and edge. Heohwan Simulation goes to show that Spring and Summer don’t have to be a dramatic departure in the direction of pastels and hotpants but a perfect progression that could survive wardrobe banishment come Autumn. Not half bad.

C. x

London Fashion Week: Leutton Postle AW12

After catching last year's Merit Award winners Leutton Postle back in September, I took my ticket (gold star no less) and headed to Vauxhall Fashion Scout for the AW12 collection.

With tribal sounds playing from the start, I was curious as to how knitwear would translate. However, judging by last season these two know their way around a wooly jumper. As usual, the collection was an imaginative and playful range handcrafted with an array of vibrant and diverse materials. Detailed edges made up of tiny pom-poms with metallic patchworks woven into many garments definitely helped in jazzing up winterwear. Running with the tribal theme, models' faces were often concealed by voodoo looking masks with bewildered expressions. Again, the memo obviously got out that I'm a bit of a magpie and would kill for a sequin suit like the one below.

Other stand out pieces included face motifs woven onto dresses and characteristic high textured cardigans and bold patterned trousers. Neutral tones were lifted with pops of primary colours and shimmer effects.  Nice.

As always, more to come..

C. x

London Fashion Week 2011: Leutton Postle

Disclaimer: All images are my own and must be credited 

Behind The Scenes at Vauxhall Fashion Scout for Leutton Postle:

Leutton Postle going over their look book for the catwalk 

Central Saint Martin’s design duo Sam Leutton and Jenny Postle– also known as Leutton Postle- presented their highly anticipated knitwear couture to a rapturous reception and I, of course, was down the front.

 After claiming the accolade of last season’s Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award, the dynamic duo that are Leutton Postle went all out with their reward of a fully sponsored catwalk show -and exhibition in the stunningly grandiose Freemason’s Hall. A leading showcase for fashion innovation, the downstairs showroom setting was perfect to demonstrate the young birds flying the nest whilst the fresh, new fledgling talents were flaunted in the upstairs gallery, hoping they too would soon be in the esteemed position that Leutton Postle now find themselves in. 

The vibrant Postle knits that once attracted the attention of London’s Browns Focusare still rife yet flawlessly blended with the cultural influences of Leutton’s involvement with Japanese innovators Stoll. Together, the designers create something visually vibrant and unique with a strong element of couture . Despite the monotony of the long, slicked back and centre parted hair, colour is the theme du jour here as each and every design freely embraces lawless colour clashes, enriched by the unusual rough and ready surface texture of the base hessian. Even the models’ lips have been violently but beautifully knitted shut. This,combined with unruly yet distinctly plush patterns act to create beautifully offbeat knits to make us reconsider the possibilities of our boring, old woolly jumper.