London Fashion Week: Derek Lawlor AW12

After leaving it a little bit on the close side (blame Maya) and jumping in the nearest available taxi, we headed off schedule to Shoreditch where Derek Lawlor showcased his latest collection at the charming Paper Dress Vintage.

With models hidden behind a screen, we were left to sip champagne, eat free brownies observe the footwear in anticipation of the show. Such a hard life. Taking in the surroundings in the meantime, it was hard not to notice the rather unusual exposed hair and makeup stations - you see, this was going to be a show with a twist. Changing with every look, the audience were for once able to gain an insight into the fast pace of the behind the scenes crew as they teased and tangled the models hair after each parade.

Specialising in knitwear, Lawlor's creations were innovative and bold, simplified in a predominantly dark palette of blacks and greys with the occasional blast of red. Unlike laddered tights, the laddered knitted dresses were divine and undeniably elegant providing a unique twist to standard formalwear. Revamped classics were a continued theme as simple black leotards and jumpsuits were elevated with 3D embellishments and structured geometric shoulders. There was also a very nipply jumper for those of you who are into that sort of thing. Also showcased throughout were a range of out-of-this-world headpieces designed by Royal College of Art student Hannah Morgan to really up the visual element of the show.





London Fashion Week: Leutton Postle AW12

After catching last year's Merit Award winners Leutton Postle back in September, I took my ticket (gold star no less) and headed to Vauxhall Fashion Scout for the AW12 collection.

With tribal sounds playing from the start, I was curious as to how knitwear would translate. However, judging by last season these two know their way around a wooly jumper. As usual, the collection was an imaginative and playful range handcrafted with an array of vibrant and diverse materials. Detailed edges made up of tiny pom-poms with metallic patchworks woven into many garments definitely helped in jazzing up winterwear. Running with the tribal theme, models' faces were often concealed by voodoo looking masks with bewildered expressions. Again, the memo obviously got out that I'm a bit of a magpie and would kill for a sequin suit like the one below.

Other stand out pieces included face motifs woven onto dresses and characteristic high textured cardigans and bold patterned trousers. Neutral tones were lifted with pops of primary colours and shimmer effects.  Nice.

As always, more to come..

C. x

London Fashion Week 2011: Craig Lawrence

With ticket holders queuing around the spiral staircase in their hoards, there was an undeniable buzz about the building for the SS12 presentation in Somerset House.

The intimate surroundings of Craig Lawrence’s salon show, attended by many proud friends and family members of the designer, made for an intense atmosphere as several forcible hushes for silence were only broken by the sporadic clicking of a camera shutter. Having acquired the renowned brand Swarovski as his season sponsor, curiosity and expectations were high despite the humble space allocated.

Apparently inspired by “vajazzling” (Well, he is from the area after all), each garment was intricately created using yarns woven with small and fragile crystals to create a subtle shimmer under the dazzling Portico Room ceiling lights. His palette remained delicate and neutral throughout as the collection used soft gold tones with a blush hue adding depth to the crochet. His techniques ranged from creations made using a single thread for a softer finish to a lace-hole technique allowing the drapes and folds to fall in an effortlessly feminine manner.

Looking down, the models possessed metallic leggings reflecting the flashes of light like the scales on a fish’s back whilst stunning, structured headpieces from Steven Doherty finished the look with head dresses caught part way between an Amish bonnet and a halo, pulling strands of hair through to create an almost ethereal visage.

London Fashion Week 2011: Leutton Postle

Disclaimer: All images are my own and must be credited 

Behind The Scenes at Vauxhall Fashion Scout for Leutton Postle:

Leutton Postle going over their look book for the catwalk 

Central Saint Martin’s design duo Sam Leutton and Jenny Postle– also known as Leutton Postle- presented their highly anticipated knitwear couture to a rapturous reception and I, of course, was down the front.

 After claiming the accolade of last season’s Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award, the dynamic duo that are Leutton Postle went all out with their reward of a fully sponsored catwalk show -and exhibition in the stunningly grandiose Freemason’s Hall. A leading showcase for fashion innovation, the downstairs showroom setting was perfect to demonstrate the young birds flying the nest whilst the fresh, new fledgling talents were flaunted in the upstairs gallery, hoping they too would soon be in the esteemed position that Leutton Postle now find themselves in. 

The vibrant Postle knits that once attracted the attention of London’s Browns Focusare still rife yet flawlessly blended with the cultural influences of Leutton’s involvement with Japanese innovators Stoll. Together, the designers create something visually vibrant and unique with a strong element of couture . Despite the monotony of the long, slicked back and centre parted hair, colour is the theme du jour here as each and every design freely embraces lawless colour clashes, enriched by the unusual rough and ready surface texture of the base hessian. Even the models’ lips have been violently but beautifully knitted shut. This,combined with unruly yet distinctly plush patterns act to create beautifully offbeat knits to make us reconsider the possibilities of our boring, old woolly jumper.