London Fashion Week: Derek Lawlor AW12

After leaving it a little bit on the close side (blame Maya) and jumping in the nearest available taxi, we headed off schedule to Shoreditch where Derek Lawlor showcased his latest collection at the charming Paper Dress Vintage.

With models hidden behind a screen, we were left to sip champagne, eat free brownies observe the footwear in anticipation of the show. Such a hard life. Taking in the surroundings in the meantime, it was hard not to notice the rather unusual exposed hair and makeup stations - you see, this was going to be a show with a twist. Changing with every look, the audience were for once able to gain an insight into the fast pace of the behind the scenes crew as they teased and tangled the models hair after each parade.

Specialising in knitwear, Lawlor's creations were innovative and bold, simplified in a predominantly dark palette of blacks and greys with the occasional blast of red. Unlike laddered tights, the laddered knitted dresses were divine and undeniably elegant providing a unique twist to standard formalwear. Revamped classics were a continued theme as simple black leotards and jumpsuits were elevated with 3D embellishments and structured geometric shoulders. There was also a very nipply jumper for those of you who are into that sort of thing. Also showcased throughout were a range of out-of-this-world headpieces designed by Royal College of Art student Hannah Morgan to really up the visual element of the show.





London Fashion Week: Leutton Postle AW12

After catching last year's Merit Award winners Leutton Postle back in September, I took my ticket (gold star no less) and headed to Vauxhall Fashion Scout for the AW12 collection.

With tribal sounds playing from the start, I was curious as to how knitwear would translate. However, judging by last season these two know their way around a wooly jumper. As usual, the collection was an imaginative and playful range handcrafted with an array of vibrant and diverse materials. Detailed edges made up of tiny pom-poms with metallic patchworks woven into many garments definitely helped in jazzing up winterwear. Running with the tribal theme, models' faces were often concealed by voodoo looking masks with bewildered expressions. Again, the memo obviously got out that I'm a bit of a magpie and would kill for a sequin suit like the one below.

Other stand out pieces included face motifs woven onto dresses and characteristic high textured cardigans and bold patterned trousers. Neutral tones were lifted with pops of primary colours and shimmer effects.  Nice.

As always, more to come..

C. x

London Fashion Week: Ashish AW12

After catching the incredible SS12 collection back in September, there was no way I was missing out on the latest that my fellow sequin lover Ashish has to offer.

The AW12 collection, entitled “Bollywouldn’t” (geddit?), certainly didn’t disappoint. Influenced by a recent trip home to his native India, the Ashish woman takes some of the key elements of ritual life with tie dye silk kurtas  printed with Hari Krishna slogans, headscarves and shimmering images of Buddha featuring heavily.

Mixing the sacred with the profrane, the collection also took into account what I can only describe as the most iconic  of images from 90’s acid rave culture. Jackets and trousers emblazoned with vibrant yellow smiley faces and hallucinogenic paisley prints adorned pieces ranging from pastel to fluorescent. The two inspirations are ying and yang, which is just as well as the symbol could also be found on glittering shorts accompanying platform Doc Marten style boots.

The designer’s move from home to London is apparent throughout the collection ensuring a more personal and well thought approach to the pieces.  It would be easy to ask where else Ashish could go with something as simple as a sequin but, as his transition from SS12 to AW12, I think we can expect great and equally original things in the future.

 

 

 

Keep your eyes peeled this week for an exclusive backstage interview with Ashish where he goes into detail about his inspirations and what's in the pipeline for 2012. Cheers for the chat, Ashish.

Until then..
C. x

London Fashion Week: Michael Van Der Ham AW12

No rest for the wicked, I trotted off to the Topshop showspace to catch a glimpse of Newgen sponsored Michael Van Der Ham‘s AW12 collection. After cheekily bumping into the lovely Katie with whom I interned with at 156 and having my photo taken for Elle (ooh fancy!), I spotted Mollie King from The Saturdays (and just now Nicola from Girls Aloud) bringing my minor celebrity count to about 7. As I said, fancy.

But on to Van Der Ham. Metallics were everywhere in true party season style, with heavy emphasis on silver. Paired with a combination of lime greens, blues, bold rust oranges and muted greys, the photographer’s flashbulbs reflected off the pieces from every angle making for a beautiful display. Gathered waists provided a loose peplum effect on high side slit knitted pencil skirts and dresses whilst simple tshirt sleeves and round necks were lifted with the addition of draped fabric over the shoulder.

As usual, a signature mashup of patchwork prints was rife starting with burnt orange pattern trousers; the design creeping upwards and leaving its trace on more neutral upper halves to maintain both balance and continuity.

Amongst a whole host of perfect party dresses and elegant slim legged, ankle grazing trousers, bold print Louboutin heels gave the models a few extra inches whilst gold leaf print eyes and cool Hollywood waves perfected the looks. If only I didn't always think of bloody Lana Del Ray every time I saw that hairdo. I'm still reeling from the fact she now has a Mulberry bag named after her. Luckily it's a bit shit.

Onto the next one!

C. x

London Fashion Week: Francesca Marotta AW12

Celebrating her second season at London Fashion Week, Francesca Marotta presented her AW12 collection to a packed out crowd at the stunning Goldsmith’s Hall.

“Amore della mia Vita” (or love of my life to you and me) saw a drastic change to SS12 with colours remaining firmly on the dark side. Using an array of wool, lace, silk and leather as her tools, Marotta focuses on love, loss and mourning. Bold flashes of passionate red interrupt the solemn display as the photographer’s go wild for a lace train ensemble whilst the beautiful and startling finale saw the model practically swapped by the flashes. Dressed in an elaborate thorny crown with smoky red eyes and a gruesome trail of blood running from her lips, the model made her way down the catwalk in a slow and entrancing dance, perhaps a stylistic interpretation of the saviour the women are remembering.

Backcombed hairpieces sat upon perfectly sleek styles, perfectly complimenting the contrasts of the collection. Feminine cinched waists were apparent amongst heavy dark fabrics whilst stark flashes of neon yellow and blue plastics lifted the collection and brought a glimmer of hope to its aesthetic gravity.

More to follow...

C. x

London Fashion Week: Dans La Vie AW12

I may be a little late in uploading but I can't not mention one of my highlights of Day two at London Fashion Week.

This is Dans La Vie (Rira Sugawara) ‘s third collection at LFW and possibly the most exciting one yet. Dubbed “Exciting Encounter” due to the designers unexpected forray into the medium of 1960′s American Pop art, the influence is apparent from the start. Target symbols and clashing comic – esque prints are strong throughout the display whilst sunglasses and quiffed hair with vibrant streaks all contribute to the cartoon element. Could streaks be the new dip dye?

High gloss finishes were essential as snake skin suits and trenches glistened down the catwalk, suggesting that wet look and vinyl plastics will be big news again this winter.

Teaming cool black leather bombers with the more intense of the prints provided a more wearable approach to the designs whilst other looks went all out with orange disc fascinators and bold identical layers. Models wore bold red lips with clear complexions and dark eyes brought classic glamour to the already retro vibe.

Wide and fur collars, cinched waist trench coats and bold prints are popping up everywhere this week but I have to say that Dans La Vie did it in one of the most daring ways yet. Love.

C.x

London Fashion Week: Shao Yen AW12

Aimed at ‘creative women who aim to look classic but playful’, Bright Young Things 2011designer Shao Yen‘s AW12 collection wasn’t one to miss.

In one of the most hectic settings so far, a lonesome cellist soundtracked the packed room pushing and shoving to get a shot of a collection artfully displayed on models raised on several high podiums. Despite my own personal fears that the models (one of which I worked with at Fashion156) may fall to their deaths in one misjudged nudge,  ‘Class’ looked instantly impressive. Inspired by quintessentially British style, the designs draw upon the country with the inclusion of tweed in several ensembles whilst contrasting leather and fur are unusually integrated into more delicate pieces to satisfy Yen’s trademark fascination with unconventional material. Simple and classic pinstripe suits and polo neck knits too are given a certain youthful edge.

Neutrals, blacks and browns are lifted with vivid injections of orange tailoring and turquoise trims to put a playful spin on conventional and often dull formal wear. The playfullness of the collection is also apparent in the makeup as models donned rosy cheeks (presumably to go along with the good ol' British farmer complexion?) and bold red rips. I know its garish and probably awful in reality but I SERIOUSLY want me some orange fur in some form and asap. 

More shows to follow...
C. x