Thursday, 23 February 2012

London Fashion Week: Gieves and Hawkes AW12

At the end of 5 days dedicated solely to the ladies, the time has finally arrived for boys. Kicking off Mensday Wednesday, I opted to get suited and booted at Savile Row’s Gieves and Hawkes AW12 presentation.

A fresh glass of orange juice upon arrival and one of the most beautifully packaged look books I’ve ever had the pleasure to receive, the presentation was already off to a good start. With many a representative on hand to explain the collection, inspiration is accredited to the 1960’s playful and relationship between colour and print and particularly the work of David Hicks.

Mixing bold colours with geometrical print, notably present in the array of bowties and handkerchiefs, with a more traditional setting paved the way for contemporary and stylish formalwear. Discussing iconic moments such as the Beatles notorious rooftop performance of 1969 whereupon an audience, including former employees, in fact gathered upon the adjoining Grieves and Hawkes roof; the collection is one of the most personal of the week. Barry Tulip plays upon the contrast between classic British menswear from Savile Row and the most bold and rebellious archetypal British band. Drawing upon the past but not becoming consumed by it, classic garments such as beautifully tailored suit jackets are brought into the present day with widened lapels and raised first buttons and teamed with suitably vibrant ties - a nod to the energy and fast paced atmosphere of the swinging 60s. It is explained that these ensembles pay homage to Tommy Nutter who dressed three of the Beatles for their Abbey Road cover.

A stand out piece for me personally has to be the emerald green harris tweed coat, paired with a camel scarf and cashmere blend electric blue waffle crew neck. Formal without appearing stuffy, the look is perfect for those who like to at least think of themselves as a modern day gentleman whilst the autumnal hues are perfect for the season. Spotted elsewhere, I discovered the softest single-breasted camel coat in existence and a dreamy cream donegal v-neck paired with a contrast burnt rose poplin cotton shirt combo.  Traditional and distinctive, Gieves and Hawkes have paid attention to detail to create a luxurious and beautifully made collection. Big thumbs up. Now to find myself a gorgeous male model to show them off....

C. x


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