London Fashion Week: Jasper Garvida SS13

After one of those journeys that seems to be to the centre of the Earth (no thanks to my seriously battered feet) but in reality is exceptionally simple, I eventually found my way to the Bloomsbury Hotel for Jasper Garvida’s latest showcase. Who's Jack have been fans of Garvida for some time now and we were rewarded with a VIP ticket for a really great close up look at L’Unite de Temps et L’Espace, his SS13 collection.

 Oh yes, I was on the FROW - goodie bag and ego boost galore.

As  the sweet sounds of Dusty Springfield  ring out, we are given a hint into the inspirations behind the collection – the 1960’s of course. However, before we had time to contemplate, a bizarre noise hit our ears as the first model took the walk. As she paraded by in a gorgeous all black shift dress in a mini length, it became apparent that the noise was the brushing together of oversized shimmering discs layered upon her skirt. From the length to the very basics of the first look, you could tell that the collection would take shape around the styling of iconic figures such as Mary Quant and draw inspiration from the times as a whole.

 An almost abstract leopard print is accessorized with flip up sunglasses in a circle design and a simple plastic cuff, moving onto geometric designs in black, white, silver and beige. The combination of geometry and structure, right down the very hairstyles inspired by Vidal Sassoon, reflect the modernist architectural design of the time, brought to us in a very 21^st century way. Perspex geometric chokers immediately grab my attention, swamping the models delicate frame with a bold structure to create a simple yet effective contrast.  Colour blocked striped dresses are ready to wear, perfect for casual city chic whilst optical monochrome sequin dresses and shimmering cream lace and disc shifts are perfect for after dark.

The collection very titles draws upon the unity of time and space, the contrast of light and dark, which is something that cannot be dismissed. Strong shapes fit upon soft and feminine silhouettes, simple two tone patterns compliment structured tailoring to create a perfectly balanced collection. As I sat there with my beehive and turtle neck (oh yes, I went there), I was immediately drawn to the wearability of the works and ridiculously excited by the prospect of potentially being able to wear a dress that can be heard before it is seen.  It’s the simple things.

 C. x

London Fashion Week: Zoe Jordan SS13

With a front row boasting the likes of Poppy Delvigne, Jamela Jamil and, more surprisingly, BBC Sport’s Jake Humphreys, seating allocations were thrown to the wind as demand exceeded supply for one of the hottest shows this side of London. As well literally referring to the beads of sweat dripping off the furrowed brows of spectators,  Zoe Jordan’s  SS13 collection too oozed laidback sex appeal as sports chic took a turn for the sexy.

Easy, breezy sports  separates lead the way for  a youthful collection in pastel tones with smatterings of leather and boucle. A classic Spring palette of pastel pinks and crisp whites were diluted by the last remnants of the Christmas party with metallic silvers and gold giving a tough edge to feminine tones.  Metallic blue and green skirts were complimented by classic and fresh white cropped vests and open front waistcoats for a sophisticated yet feminine feel. Two piece short suits were brought to life with vivid pops of shimmering green, a hue that ran steady throughout the collection translating onto to-die-for shift dresses.

As the music pumped, shaking the few benches provides, lady-like casuals gave way to college athletics as metallic baseball caps and jackets refused to play ball for optimum contrast. Vibrant orange and scarlet red bikini clad girls interspersed an array of boyish jackets  and slim cut trousers for a real sense of sports luxe.
From a beauty perspective, neutral make up adorned each model with carefree hair, sporting a freshly washed vibe, still dripping wet to provide a nonchalant give-a-f*ck attitude to each get up.

Although it’s not a stark departure from her recent works, this is a perfectly commercial range to appeal to almost everyone. And if running out the door with your hair still wet is the way forward then I suppose we all have something to look forward to come Spring!

London Fashion Week SS13

Back for a third season with a team I honestly love, I couldn't be more thrilled to be back at Somerset House. From the atmosphere to the outfits to, of course, the show, Fashion Week is where the tiniest ideas come into fruition, where a single printed dress or entire collection hits you like a bolt of lightning. What started as a dot in a designer's mind is presented to masses, dictating what the world will be wearing in months to come whether the public are aware of it or not.

So who has been and is still to come? It is pretty dynamic schedule wise. There are the usual celebrity hot spots; Burberry, Moschino Cheap and Chic and Vivienne Westwood all showing alongside new talent such as Marque’ Almeida and Fydor Golan who, Faye assures me, is the new Meadham Kirschoff. As usual, Who's Jack is mostly about the younger designers and emerging talents but we are lucky to attend House of Holland this season along with DAKS, Ashish, Louise Gray amongst other bigger names.

Off to explosive start, my day began a flurry of streetstyle photographers eager to snap the 1960's cape I had 'borrowed' from my mother's wardrobe. When I slump into work at just before 9am each morning, the outfits though nice to look at, aren't quite what I wear to LFW. Fashion week is an experiment, an opportunity to fancy dress and let my imagination run wild without fear of judgement. I can go full throttle with an idea and someone out there will relate to it and approve. Of course, getting the train back to Peckham Rye bursts this bubble with a monstrous pop but it's all very much worth it. It's a place to perhaps inspire and definitely be inspired.

 Image: London Fashion by Paul

 Image: Reiss.com Street Style

So without much further ado....

A Sunday Breakfast

Vogue Fashion's Night Out: Liberty Manolo Blanik Photobooth

 

So, you could say I’ve been absent for a while. 

There are a multitude of reasons for this, starting with a new job. Hurrah! Progress in the industry, I think that’s a pretty good excuse for a lack of updates. As of May, I officially stopped work as an Intern, my last position with Monsoon, and landed a role at New Look, the high street brand, as a Fashion Copywriter. Writing is now my living and after 9-5.30 of that, come evening I’d frankly had enough.

I’d been put off blogging for a while too by a curious incident whilst drunk where upon someone declared the whole lot of it pretentious. Yeah, drunk people are great. Lucky for me, it was just the one but that’s really all you need. A little sensitive of me perhaps but either way, I laid the blog to rest for a while instead focussing on my new found copywriting job and my styling assistance whilst keeping my head firmly down as not to offend.

But now, as you cannot fail to have noticed, London FashionWeek has come around and I’m back with the Who’s Jack team down on the front line. And if I can’t share that on a personal level, why bother?

So I’m back – as  pretentious, obsessed and vain as ever. If you don’t like pictures of models in interesting prints, don’t look. If you don’t like updates on bizarre events with Medieval twists, then don’t stop by. And if you couldn’t give a crap about me twittering away about the way a designer uses layered organza to contrast a feminine frame against bold structures... then this probably isn’t for you.

Looks like I have got some catching up to do.

C. x

London Fashion Week: Gieves and Hawkes AW12

At the end of 5 days dedicated solely to the ladies, the time has finally arrived for boys. Kicking off Mensday Wednesday, I opted to get suited and booted at Savile Row’s Gieves and Hawkes AW12 presentation.

A fresh glass of orange juice upon arrival and one of the most beautifully packaged look books I’ve ever had the pleasure to receive, the presentation was already off to a good start. With many a representative on hand to explain the collection, inspiration is accredited to the 1960’s playful and relationship between colour and print and particularly the work of David Hicks.

Mixing bold colours with geometrical print, notably present in the array of bowties and handkerchiefs, with a more traditional setting paved the way for contemporary and stylish formalwear. Discussing iconic moments such as the Beatles notorious rooftop performance of 1969 whereupon an audience, including former employees, in fact gathered upon the adjoining Grieves and Hawkes roof; the collection is one of the most personal of the week. Barry Tulip plays upon the contrast between classic British menswear from Savile Row and the most bold and rebellious archetypal British band. Drawing upon the past but not becoming consumed by it, classic garments such as beautifully tailored suit jackets are brought into the present day with widened lapels and raised first buttons and teamed with suitably vibrant ties - a nod to the energy and fast paced atmosphere of the swinging 60s. It is explained that these ensembles pay homage to Tommy Nutter who dressed three of the Beatles for their Abbey Road cover.

A stand out piece for me personally has to be the emerald green harris tweed coat, paired with a camel scarf and cashmere blend electric blue waffle crew neck. Formal without appearing stuffy, the look is perfect for those who like to at least think of themselves as a modern day gentleman whilst the autumnal hues are perfect for the season. Spotted elsewhere, I discovered the softest single-breasted camel coat in existence and a dreamy cream donegal v-neck paired with a contrast burnt rose poplin cotton shirt combo.  Traditional and distinctive, Gieves and Hawkes have paid attention to detail to create a luxurious and beautifully made collection. Big thumbs up. Now to find myself a gorgeous male model to show them off....

C. x

London Fashion Week: Francesca Marotta AW12

Celebrating her second season at London Fashion Week, Francesca Marotta presented her AW12 collection to a packed out crowd at the stunning Goldsmith’s Hall.

“Amore della mia Vita” (or love of my life to you and me) saw a drastic change to SS12 with colours remaining firmly on the dark side. Using an array of wool, lace, silk and leather as her tools, Marotta focuses on love, loss and mourning. Bold flashes of passionate red interrupt the solemn display as the photographer’s go wild for a lace train ensemble whilst the beautiful and startling finale saw the model practically swapped by the flashes. Dressed in an elaborate thorny crown with smoky red eyes and a gruesome trail of blood running from her lips, the model made her way down the catwalk in a slow and entrancing dance, perhaps a stylistic interpretation of the saviour the women are remembering.

Backcombed hairpieces sat upon perfectly sleek styles, perfectly complimenting the contrasts of the collection. Feminine cinched waists were apparent amongst heavy dark fabrics whilst stark flashes of neon yellow and blue plastics lifted the collection and brought a glimmer of hope to its aesthetic gravity.

More to follow...

C. x

London Fashion Week: Shao Yen AW12

Aimed at ‘creative women who aim to look classic but playful’, Bright Young Things 2011designer Shao Yen‘s AW12 collection wasn’t one to miss.

In one of the most hectic settings so far, a lonesome cellist soundtracked the packed room pushing and shoving to get a shot of a collection artfully displayed on models raised on several high podiums. Despite my own personal fears that the models (one of which I worked with at Fashion156) may fall to their deaths in one misjudged nudge,  ‘Class’ looked instantly impressive. Inspired by quintessentially British style, the designs draw upon the country with the inclusion of tweed in several ensembles whilst contrasting leather and fur are unusually integrated into more delicate pieces to satisfy Yen’s trademark fascination with unconventional material. Simple and classic pinstripe suits and polo neck knits too are given a certain youthful edge.

Neutrals, blacks and browns are lifted with vivid injections of orange tailoring and turquoise trims to put a playful spin on conventional and often dull formal wear. The playfullness of the collection is also apparent in the makeup as models donned rosy cheeks (presumably to go along with the good ol' British farmer complexion?) and bold red rips. I know its garish and probably awful in reality but I SERIOUSLY want me some orange fur in some form and asap. 

More shows to follow...
C. x

London Fashion Week: Ada Zanditon AW12

When one thinks of a fashion show, it’s not often you envision a surreal gothic fantasy that at once explores the relationship between mankind and primates whilst simultaneously unearthing the negativity associated with Western mineral mining. Queue Ada Zanditon, ethical extraordinaire and provider of a bloody good LFW film.

After catching Ada’s presentation last year I was keen to snap up a ticket to the AW12 Simia Mineralis showing. First confronted with metallic clad aliens in September, this time I’m stood next to a medieval looking maiden. Casual.

Spooky, loud and downright creepy, the presentation was both imaginative and captivating, showcasing the latest collection in a way that is truly unique. Back once more are Ada’s signature strong silhouettes, emphasised by dramatic halloween lighting and corridor shots. Dramatic floor length red eveningwear is the outfit du jour in this fantastical nightmare, introducing a perfectly tailored purple shawl to warm the heroine in her hour of needs. Fluid lines and opposing fabrics adorn a striking model that could be taken straight from a J D Waterhouse (a personal favourite if you couldn’t tell) painting.

It could be easy to forget the clothing amongst the flashes of a Green Man and haunting cries but as the camera pans towards a London street, we’re reminded of the wearability of the collection as it translates from fantasy to reality in an instant. Well, its all wearable in my reality anyway. With a medieval dinner party to attend tonight, I really could have done with some inspiration sooner. Next time, Ada, next time.

Until the next....
C.x