Sunday, 16 September 2012

London Fashion Week: DAKS SS13

Bright and early on day two of London Fashion Week, and still exhausted from the bustling schedule from the day before, I managed to drag my weary bones from bed to BFC for the DAKS SS13 collection. The first show of the day usually lacks in numbers due to the hangovers and inability to wake before 7am yet DAKS manages to pull in a packed out crowd with familiar Made in Chelsea faces banished to (shock horror) the 3rd row.

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Soundtracked by a song from The Knife’s Deep Cuts, the abstract beat provides a perfect backdrop to a collection inspired by Expressionist art, from cross-hatched surface techniques to layered brush strokes.  As it so happens, layering performed a key part in the range with models cocooned in oversized proportions and floating chiffon fabrics, a nod to the fluidity of the movement.

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Springtime at DAKS saw a gorgeous neutral palette with rich dusty tones washed with white and covered in earth.  In a tale of two halves, the collection moves from light to dark with simple, clean cut shift dresses under boxy leather sleeveless jackets  alongside exaggerated semi-sheer sleeves and wide leg trousers. As the collection progresses towards the solstice, the days become lighter and with it comes warm orange brown tailored shorts with romantic dark cream shirts and bell sleeve metallics.  Sheer white and cream cool lead the way for simple, chic city looks in structured layers, finished with tiny shoulder bags and small gym bags carried at the calf. And finally, the Pièce de résistance, a soft brown heritage tweed cape with black piping to the pockets and collar leaves the audience counting down the days until release. Paired with simple tan flats with cut away sides, I realise it bears a resemblance to the beige tweed 1960s cape I wore yesterday which officially means they stole the idea from me (right?).

The effortlessly refined collection was finished to perfection with slender pony tails that reflect the simple sophistication of the brand.  As the models took for their final lap of honour, the reality of the collection really becomes apparent as solid looks are followed to a consistently high standard to create a truly ‘complete’ collection. I want it all and I want it now.

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C. x

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