Sunday, 16 September 2012

London Fashion Week: Melissa Diamantidi SS13

Gathering in the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Freemason’s Hall, sat behind the designer Melissa Diamantidi’s eager and excited mother, I had my fingers crossed that her collection would truly deliver a display to make her mother proud.

 This season, Diamantidi set out explore the power of light by using an array of sheer fabrics to challenge our perceptions and create a range that juxtaposes fragility with strong, structured designs. Lightweight silks and organza are formed into structured cropped tops, layered over gorgeous black and white fanned skirt dresses or waterfall jackets. The collection was startling in its, for want of a better word, prettiness. The simple three colours of black, white and mint green were all that was needed as strapless mint prom dresses were complimented by  strong yet sheer white capes, with beautifully formed and effortlessly powerful black dresses, abstractly layered, left to their own devises.  Abstract angles sat upon willowy frames to both compliment and contrast this sense of the frail and the strong, playing with the light in masterful way.  The selection of silks and reflective materials only served to re-enforce the abstract and altered perception of light the designer so hoped to achieve. Whilst the collection was undeniably elegant in its femininity, quilted panels and subtle zip details provided a certain edge to leave the pieces wholly balanced and breathtakingly beautiful.

Slicks of metallic green to the eyes were visually stunning as make up remained minimal, hair tied into wispy low, side buns. Accompanying each look, patent black loafers suggested that flats were here to stay for another season whether it be with pretty sundresses or formalwear.

Sure, the collection may have lacked the prints and explosive accessories of other designers seeking to make an impact yet Melissa created something strangely innocent and extremely clever. Using only 3 colours and the same pair of flats throughout, the collection was gorgeous in its seeming simplicity. However, when you look beneath the surface, the structures and materials are so intelligent you have to sit up and notice.

As her mother wiped a tear from her eye and I left dreaming of white dresses and Spring, you could probably say the collection was a bit of a hit. Well, for me and her mum anyway.

C. x