London Fashion Week: Pam Hogg SS13

Carnage, chaos and elbows at dawn, the show hadn’t even started and already the buzz and drama surrounding Pam Hogg’s SS13 show was astounding. With a queue longer than that for a festival toilet, there were pushers, chancers and those who dropped out due to the wait and sheer magnitude of the crowd. However, for those will a little more stamina like (oh hello), I tolerated the army of Pam’s friends, family and celebrity followers let in before us to ensure I made the most of my seated ticket.

After much anticipation following her growing mainstream recognition, even recognised by national newspapers due to her recent wedding dress endeveours, Pam Hogg’s latest collection at Vauxhall Fashion Scout was greeted with sea of excited curiosity. With the despairing title, ‘Save Our Souls’, intrigue was at its peak as the lights plummeted the restless crowd into silence.

A single spot light revealed the first figure, sinister and writhing, barely concealed with a kind of bandage and brandishing two small flash lights in the pitch black. Here we go. SS13’s Save Our Souls display starts as it meant to go on, as the lights are poignantly reminiscent of distress signals, with the bandages and broken movement depicting the fragility of the soul in such a way that raised the hairs on our necks. As the lights return even brighter than before, a familiar face in the form of Alice Dellal appears, seemingly as a nurse with an expression dead behind the eyes.

Wearing a completely backless, white apron-dress; cuffed at the arms and composed in sheer fabric keeps the shock element in full swing. The following sequence of models sported outfits of a similar clinical style, adorned with statement zips and pins to provide a typical Pam edge over the comforting familiarity of a person in care.

Stepping away into classic designer territory, nurses are replaced with what I like to think of as Disco Space Babes. Bold flashes of pink and orange, blue and green are present on skin-tight lycra textures , laced with metallics geometric designs. High definition pops of colours were offset with space age thigh-highs, capes and skull caps, feeding into the alien nature.

Keeping things fresh, the collection entered its final trimester, replacing the extra terrestrial with intricate head pieces and bold formations; the soul coming full circle to embody strength. Grandiose ruffles and sequins married with pink tulle cuffs and constructions, again barely concealing the body but very much revealing the soul. As Alice Dellal took to the runway for her final look, a healthy round of applause sounded out for her ensemble – a black cage for a skirt complete with exposed ribbing and sheer fabric, complimenting head wear fanning out above her. Arms outwards possibly for effect and most definitely her own balance, she sashayed her way down to the end to provide the story’s conclusion.

 

Plunging into darkness once more, The Only One’s – Another Girl, Another Planet appropriately blared out as guests including Nick Cave, Bobby Gillespie and Fred Butler clapped their approval. Walking arm in arm with her majestic looks and delirious models, Pam Hogg delivered another out-of-this-world experience guaranteed to leave the audience clawing at the doors to get a look in next season. Expressive, inventive and almost poetic in its execution, you can guarantee I’ll be first in line.

And I was in the same room as Nick fucking Cave.

C. x

London Fashion Week: Melissa Diamantidi SS13

Gathering in the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Freemason’s Hall, sat behind the designer Melissa Diamantidi’s eager and excited mother, I had my fingers crossed that her collection would truly deliver a display to make her mother proud.

 This season, Diamantidi set out explore the power of light by using an array of sheer fabrics to challenge our perceptions and create a range that juxtaposes fragility with strong, structured designs. Lightweight silks and organza are formed into structured cropped tops, layered over gorgeous black and white fanned skirt dresses or waterfall jackets. The collection was startling in its, for want of a better word, prettiness. The simple three colours of black, white and mint green were all that was needed as strapless mint prom dresses were complimented by  strong yet sheer white capes, with beautifully formed and effortlessly powerful black dresses, abstractly layered, left to their own devises.  Abstract angles sat upon willowy frames to both compliment and contrast this sense of the frail and the strong, playing with the light in masterful way.  The selection of silks and reflective materials only served to re-enforce the abstract and altered perception of light the designer so hoped to achieve. Whilst the collection was undeniably elegant in its femininity, quilted panels and subtle zip details provided a certain edge to leave the pieces wholly balanced and breathtakingly beautiful.

Slicks of metallic green to the eyes were visually stunning as make up remained minimal, hair tied into wispy low, side buns. Accompanying each look, patent black loafers suggested that flats were here to stay for another season whether it be with pretty sundresses or formalwear.

Sure, the collection may have lacked the prints and explosive accessories of other designers seeking to make an impact yet Melissa created something strangely innocent and extremely clever. Using only 3 colours and the same pair of flats throughout, the collection was gorgeous in its seeming simplicity. However, when you look beneath the surface, the structures and materials are so intelligent you have to sit up and notice.

As her mother wiped a tear from her eye and I left dreaming of white dresses and Spring, you could probably say the collection was a bit of a hit. Well, for me and her mum anyway.

C. x

London Fashion Week: Zeynep Tosun SS13

Presenting in the spectacular Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s Freemason’s Hall, I managed to drag my weary bones from Somerset House for a highly anticipated collection from Zeynep Tosun. Well, with Faye declaring “that’ll be well good” first thing this morning, you can see where my excitement has come from.

But in all seriousness, Zeynep Tosun’s collection really is something to be excited about. With a career that began with Alberta Ferreti in 2006 leading right up until last season with her House of Evolution showcase, Tosun has both the knowledge of experience and youthful brand development that makes for an intriguing collection. Having covered House of Evolution myself last season, Tosun’s brand identity is recognisable yet increasingly innovative. With Autumn’s burgundy hues, prints and metallic eyes all cementing themselves as key season details this year, I have a good feeling that Tosun has an eye for detail and an understanding of what’s to come. Now I’m excited.

But in all seriousness, Zeynep Tosun’s collection really is something to be excited about. With a career that began with Alberta Ferreti in 2006 leading right up until last season with her House of Evolution showcase, Tosun has both the knowledge of experience and youthful brand development that makes for an intriguing collection. Having covered House of Evolution myself last season, Tosun’s brand identity is recognisable yet increasingly innovative. With Autumn’s burgundy hues, prints and metallic eyes all cementing themselves as key season details this year, I have a good feeling that Tosun has an eye for detail and an understanding of what’s to come. Now I’m excited.

Dominated by the European and Asian influences of Istanbul, her birthplace,   her collections are generally characterized by high expressiveness and many contrasts, be that in material, colour, texture or style. This eclectic mix is no exception  this season in a collection that boasts floaty chiffon desert cool in perfect unison romantic sheers,  stark monochrome and gorgeously intricate prints. With so many clashing elements fused into one display, you’re lucky not to end up with a hot mess. However Zeynup, in her unique way, pulls it off.
Kick starting proceedings with Equestrian inspired caps and quilted white jackets, strapped at the neck, there is an immediate contrast between bondage and beauty as a clean, feminine cut is given a  tough yet sophisticated grunge edge. Inspired by our recent Olympic success perhaps? No, probably not.  However the sporting theme continues as luxe racer fronts and metallic side-stripe trousers merge into more characteristically Springtime florals yet, as is the way it should be, there is something fresh about the design.  Intricately weaving themselves up the body, flowers depart from the legs to entwine with the body. With crisp whites accentuated by mint greens and lilacs, soon comes the golden sands of the desert as pieces take a new direction.  Hoods turn to hats and outfits are topped off with oodles of chunky silver in the form of chokers, a signature metal it seems for the designer.  This truly is a collection of many dimensions.

All in all, after an array of metallics and prints, contrasting cuts and imaginative accessories, I suppose there’s only one way to describe the works. Yes Faye, it was well good.

C. x

London Fashion Week: Heohwan Simulation SS13

Showcasing at last season’s Ones To Watch and this season’s recipient of the Merit Award, the experimental Heohwan Simulation has more than proven his worth with a myriad structured transisitional pieces. Yes, that’s right – someone has finally realised that Spring doesn’t automatically assume the form of sunny skies and blistering heat.

Whereas other designers see SS collections as the go-ahead for thigh skimming shorts and crop tops galore, Heohwan brings a masculine edge to summer-time cuts that results in a perfectly wearable and versatile collection. Originally studying menswear at the highly esteemed Royal College of Art in 2007 and launching his womenswear label in 2010, his foundations in menswear only adds to the intrigue of his work. The female silhouette is overcome with boyish shapes, contrasted with oversized yet loose belts and sheer fabrics to create a new kind of femininity. Undenibly gorgeous yet grasping at a gentlemanly charm,  it is the connection between the two extremes that creates harmony.

 

 

Whereas other designers see SS collections as the go-ahead for thigh skimming shorts and crop tops galore, Heohwan brings a masculine edge to summer-time cuts that results in a perfectly wearable and versatile collection. Originally studying menswear at the highly esteemed Royal College of Art in 2007 and launching his womenswear label in 2010, his foundations in menswear only adds to the intrigue of his work. The female silhouette is overcome with boyish shapes, contrasted with oversized yet loose belts and sheer fabrics to create a new kind of femininity. Undenibly gorgeous yet grasping at a gentlemanly charm,  it is the connection between the two extremes that creates harmony.

Citing the literary work of Naomi Klein as the inspiration behind the designer’s latest spectacular, with the idea of hidden logos and factory workers as the concept of minimalism, the collection is clean cut and simple yet wholly intelligent. First along the runway, instantly defying the notions of what a catwalk should be, come two models at once; as identical as the other. Oh yes, I’m talking twins. Eerie and effortless, the girls ooze a muted sense of cool in pale chiffon and interlocking fabrics. With an injection of perforated leather and silver embellishment most associated with AW, the collection marries both aggression and delicacy.
Whilst woolen cropped jackets and mesh provide a tough element, umistakeable hues of green and yellow break out like crocuses from the ground to remind us that the sun may be (or, as the case may be, not) on its way. Layer chiffon shirts and urban prints entwine with structure and the geometric to create a range of conceptual urbanwear, most deserving of the Merit prize.

Minimalist and engaging, this is the collection that could find a connection with almost any personal style. Fresh whites and colour pop appeal to the girliest amongst us but exist in such a form as to attract the attention of those who prefer a little subtley and edge. Heohwan Simulation goes to show that Spring and Summer don’t have to be a dramatic departure in the direction of pastels and hotpants but a perfect progression that could survive wardrobe banishment come Autumn. Not half bad.

C. x

London Fashion Week: Backstage with T.Lipop AW12

After drinking and chatting with Ross from the t.lipop design team at Fashion East, the lovely lovely man invited us to the show and allowed us to grab some behind the scenes snaps. Lots of men running about in their underwear and having fake snow put in their beard whilst a nerd ran around shouting orders and Tom Lipop himself calmed him nerves with a Crabbies. Who said fashion was all about the glamour?

Many thanks to team lipop!

London Fashion Week: Inbar Spector AW12

Wow. I really mean it. Wow.

When some people think of a fashion show, this is how they look in their fantasies, often let down in reality by a designer’s insistence on the dull side of simplicity or wearablity. However, as I took my seat on the front row at Inbar Spector, the wildest side of my imagination was fulfilled by one of the most remarkable and creative shows I’ve ever had the pleasure of attending.   Spectators have been  raving for days after the show took place and rightly so as Inbar Spector, a relative unknown, was the name on everybody’s lips. One of this season’s most magnificent Vauxhall Fashion Scout shows thus far, Inbar Spector was a breathtaking collection of  ingenuity and wonder. And to top it all off? Joanna Newsom’s ‘Peach Plum Pear’ helped to soundtrack the event. It was fate that I was there, surely?

 Inspired by a theme of escapism,  her signature style transpired through a myriad of luxurious fabrics, crinolines, sequins and metallics that beautifully reflected off each and every photographer’s flash. The collection focused on the question “Where does skin end and the body start?”, immediately apparent the models losing themselves to their clothing through facial concealment and endless reams of fabric. Fantastical fairytale bodycon items blended with ragile cut away patterns, carefully entwining the model with each piece.

Extravagant pastel toned ruffles, detailed lace and enough sequins that were so bright even I had to shield my eyes all contributed to an alluring and breathtaking displays. Lilacs, mint green, rose pinks, golds and nudes were apparent throughout, leaving the most understated colour of white to create the most stunning of finale looks. A huge wedding-style, ruffle layered  dress, not too unlike a wedding cake in some respects, was paired with an exotic bejewelled mask, all designed by Lara Jensen, to a standing ovation.

Are you likely to be popping to tescos in these pieces? No. Not in the slightest. But the show was everything I could want from London Fashion Week – creative, flamboyant, excessive and experimental and Inbar Spector didn’t let me down.Truly, truly magical.

As always, more to come.

C. x

London Fashion Week: Leutton Postle AW12

After catching last year's Merit Award winners Leutton Postle back in September, I took my ticket (gold star no less) and headed to Vauxhall Fashion Scout for the AW12 collection.

With tribal sounds playing from the start, I was curious as to how knitwear would translate. However, judging by last season these two know their way around a wooly jumper. As usual, the collection was an imaginative and playful range handcrafted with an array of vibrant and diverse materials. Detailed edges made up of tiny pom-poms with metallic patchworks woven into many garments definitely helped in jazzing up winterwear. Running with the tribal theme, models' faces were often concealed by voodoo looking masks with bewildered expressions. Again, the memo obviously got out that I'm a bit of a magpie and would kill for a sequin suit like the one below.

Other stand out pieces included face motifs woven onto dresses and characteristic high textured cardigans and bold patterned trousers. Neutral tones were lifted with pops of primary colours and shimmer effects.  Nice.

As always, more to come..

C. x

London Fashion Week 2011: Bunmi Koko

Late night at Freemason’s Hall saw Vauxhall Fashion Scout present African Fashion Award 2010 winner, Bunmi Koko, to an unusually packed out audience and I was down the front to check it out.

Bunmi Koko is a luxury fashion and art label specialising in both couture and ready to wear womens fashion, whilst also possessing a sister company in artistic illustration. This combination of art and fashion is vital to the brand’s philosophy with all collections striving to present the company motto of  ‘Luxuria, Art, Elegans’. Presenting her late night SS12 collection, “Allure of the Sirens”,  we are told that Bunmi drew inspiration from Greek Mythology and the infamously seductive Sirens who lured sailors to their deaths with their enchanting call.

With me squinting and desperately trying to remember the names of the former this and that on the FROW*,  the lights dimmed on my struggling efforts  and realigned my interests on the mysterious figure making their way down the walk, disguise in the darkness.  As the lights go up, a young girl begins to belt out a series of soulful sounds,  reminiscent of the Siren myth, to accompany the backing track as the first model started to strut.

Floor length pieces colour blocked with blue and yellow accompany midi-length cutaway dresses  and structured bustiers, making an avid departure from recent Bunmi Koko collections. The colours were vibrant and boldlybright while the choice of chiffon and organza fabrics allowed the collection to flow with elegant ease.  Every so often, a border line couture piece broke through with intricate cut out details and oversized, structured collars in orange and green to add variation to the feminine draping. Blown out, teased hair and metallic sweeps of sea green adorning the faces of each model addied a dash of Siren glamour in keeping with the nights theme.  As the final model returned to the back, Bunmi Olaye, the designer herself, took to the runway for a carefree walk of honour clearly overwhelmed of the turn out and waving to familiar faces in the crowd. Not bad for late night on a Tuesday!

*Sabrina, former-Misteeq, Ali Bastien (‘Who?’ you cry? Formerly Becca from Hollyoaks, the naughty naughty teacher who had an affair with the attractive school boy and got stabbed in prison for not being able to keep it in her pants. Classic Front Row attendee....) and Keisha, former-Sugababe. Oh and BB from Dirty Sexy Things but that all passed me by.