Texture and structure are long established design staples for Debenhams’s favourite, John Rocha. However, the Hong Kong born designer’s London Fashion Week SS12 collection is anything but old fashions as he champions bold and dramatic pieces to a packed out crowd.
tones of black, rich honey and white reigned supreme, a carefully
chosen palette forming the perfect relationship with the designs as not
to distract from the beautifully crafted lightweight sheer fabrics
juxtaposed against heavy texture.
The silhouettes felt undeniably
modern, something I was honestly wasn’t expecting. Dramatic dresses
with fitted, crochet bodices and full sculptured skirts with voluminous,
almost feather-like fringed skirts were set in contrast to intricate
straw embellishment and embroidery.
Inspired by “seaweed, sculpture & handcrafting”
and his own travels, the Red Indian influence is apparent front the
start from the centre parted skinny braids to the heavy clog shoe and
natural straw finishes. However, the focal point for many was the
simply stunning head pieces ranging from Mohawk contraptions to
structured likening the models to horned gazelles, ready to leap through
the tribal landscape. Despite the obvious fragile beauty of his
designs, each model toughened up the look like studs and nose rings to
add an edge to the elegance.
Also, it has to be said, this collection seems like a lot of love went
into it. For the first time at London Fashion Week 2011, a designer did
more than a coy back from the start of the runway as John Rocha walked
out arm in arm with his opening model, Abbey Lee, thanking the audience
with all his heart for such an astounding reception.